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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Labyrint
In the West face, up the rib to the ledge and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
Up the crack and higher up the wall to the ledge, and then through the center of the… Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
Up the crack to the fore-summit and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Labyrint
From the 1st K into the route Route 40 and up along it. Rock Climbing
2+
Labyrint
Up the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Labyrint
On the left in the South face, up the chimney and diagonally right along the rib to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Labyrint
Left on the S face to K and right to the 2nd K. Up the wall and crack. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Labyrint
Up the rib in the right part of the S face to K. Difficult ascent and further up the rib… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Inkubátor
Up the center of the uphill NE face. Rock Climbing
4-
Inkubátor
Up the center of the W face via a crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Inkubátor
From the uphill side diagonally right to the edge and up along it. Rock Climbing
5+
Inkubátor
Up the center of the valley wall (K) n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Inkubátor
Up the left valley edge n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Inkubátor
Overhanging start using a crack, higher up the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
2+
Inkubátor
Start from the highest point of the upper NE side via a small wall and a small crack… Rock Climbing
2
Inkubátor
From the upper NE side from the left over a detached block n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Hlavy blíženců
From the NE via the chimney between the towers, higher up via the Old Path n. v. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kladivo
From the Fata Morgana massif, a jump to the right edge of the adjacent block and lightly… Rock Climbing
4-
Kladivo
With a corner further up. Rock Climbing
6-
Kladivo
Through the center of the N face along the cracks to K. Along the wall to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Kladivo
To the right in the N face, an overhanging start and then the wall to the right to K. To… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kladivo
Through the center of the pillar to the left of the route "Corner Crack" (crack-loops)… Rock Climbing
8+/9-
Kladivo
In the West wall directly via an overhanging wall over 3 rings to the belay bolt. Rock Climbing
6
Kladivo
At the NW edge, along the crack to its end at K. To the left along the edge, further up. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Kladivo
Along the edge and to the left to the 1st ring of the route "Rájecká paní". To the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kladivo
In the left part of the West wall, a short crack and then the wall to the right to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Kladivo
To the left of the route "Valley Crack" via a small pillar and a crack under an overhang … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kladivo
At the beginning of the chimney by stemming and higher up the wall to the left and along… Rock Climbing
5
Kladivo
Up the middle of the valley-facing wall to the left of the route "Sad Trumpeters" via a… Rock Climbing
5+
Kladivo
From the South (valley) side to the left of the chimney dividing the tower into two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay

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