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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kladivo
From the South (valley) side to the left of the chimney dividing the tower into two… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Kladivo
From the valley into the inner space of the chimney and in its back part by stemming… Rock Climbing
5+
Kladivo
To the right of the valley chimney, which divides the wall into two parts. To the right,… Rock Climbing
5
Kladivo
To the right of the route Buchar, via the Valley Route to a ledge, over a ring and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kladivo
Up the middle of the valley-facing South right half of the tower to a ledge and to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kladivo
Up the middle of the pillar, via the wall and a small overhang to a step to the ring of… Rock Climbing
5
Kladivo
Via the crack in the left part of the wall, higher up through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kladivo
To the right in the South wall, up the middle of the pillar over 2 rings to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Kladivo
Overhanging SE edge into a crack and higher up again along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kladivo
To the right in the East wall, a small crack along the edge to a step and then along the… Rock Climbing
5+
Kladivo
To the left of the corner crack, up the wall to the left to a step to the ring. Then up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Kladivo
From a prominent corner in the East wall via the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Kladivo
Via a prominent corner to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kladivo
To the left of the "Old Route" from the massif by stepping over or jumping and then up… Rock Climbing
2
Kladivo
From the East over the blocks into the uphill wall and via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Křeček
Up the narrow V-shaped wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Křeček
Left of the "Narrow Pillar" via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Křeček
Right on the wall via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Převislý masiv
In the left part of the massif via a prominent rib into a hole, from there via another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
6-
Hrot
Overhang in the North wall and along the left edge up. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrot
Via the crack along the plateau edge to the balcony and along the wall near the edge up. Rock Climbing
2+
Hrot
In the valley wall diagonally right to the ledge and right along the curved edge up. Rock Climbing
4-
Hrot
To the right of the ''Plateau Path'' via a rib to the balcony. Rock Climbing
2+
Hrot
Along the left valley edge to the balcony, along the edge up. Rock Climbing
3
Hrot
Entrance between the Valley Corner and the Valley Path. Overhang along the edge and a… Rock Climbing
3
Hrot
In the right part of the V wall via the corner to the balcony and left along the wall up. Rock Climbing
4+
Červánková věž
Through the middle of the valley wall to the sloping small chimney, via it to the ledge,… Rock Climbing
4+
Červánková věž
In the right part of the valley wall over the steps to the overhanging crack and via it… Rock Climbing
3
Červánková věž
From the West via the steps into a short chimney, from there right onto the slanting edge… Rock Climbing
2
Červánková věž
From the plateau side via the chimney with a wedged boulder and up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing

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