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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Kopyto
Start like the Old Route on Rumcajs to a large block. Via the left wall into a crack and… Rock Climbing
4+
Kopyto
From the piled boulders below the South face onto a ledge and via an indentation to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Cipísek
Through the center of the plateau face to K (fixed point) and diagonally left into a… Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
Start in the left part of the valley face via a rib running to the right, later via a… Rock Climbing
6
Cipísek
From K (fixed point) on the Plateau face directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Cipísek
In the middle of the valley face via a ramp to the right to a balcony to K (fixed point)… Rock Climbing
4+
Cipísek
In the left part of the plateau face into a gully/slot and further via a crack to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Cipísek
In the right part of the plateau face via a crack and further along the edge directly to… Rock Climbing
4-
Trpaslík
To the right in the North wall, up the wall near a small rib and right behind the edge.… Rock Climbing
5
Trpaslík
Via a crack in the North wall over K (bolt/piton) to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Trpaslík
In the right part of the valley wall into a hole to K (bolt/piton). Up the wall and edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
?
Trpaslík
To the left in the valley wall along a crack (hourglass) and up the wall to the ledge,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
Via the NW edge, initially via a crack into the 'Valley Route' and via that to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Trpaslík
To the left in the valley wall along a crack (hourglass) and up the wall to the ledge. To… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Trpaslík
Via the upper/plateau edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Hláska
Via a crack to the right in the NW wall to the N edge, via that to the K (bolt/piton) on… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7+/8-
Hláska
In the middle of the NE wall, briefly via stemming/opposition and up the wall over 3 K … Rock Climbing
6
Hláska
To the right of the North edge, via a small pillar/arete and the wall, into the hole … Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Hláska
From the large hourglass of the 'West Route' directly over 2 BH (belay bolts/pitons) to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Hláska
Up the middle of the South wall to the hole and left to K (bolt/piton). Diagonally right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Hláska
Directly up the V-edge into the second crack and via that to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hláska
Via a crack to the right of the SW edge to the 1st K (bolt/piton) and up the wall over… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Hláska
Via the SW edge (K - bolt/piton) to the ledge, right to the 2nd K (bolt/piton) and via… Rock Climbing
4-
Hláska
Up 4m via the V-edge and traverse left into a crack, briefly to its end, then traverse… Rock Climbing
4+
Tribuna
From the left edge via the overhanging wall to the right to K. Along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Tribuna
Left in the North face via a crack to K. Overhanging wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Tribuna
Center of the wall via an interrupted crack over K to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Tribuna
Right in the wall via the chimney to the ledge, over the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
From the massif, overfall and short wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
North chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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