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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zub
Right in the valley wall via a crack to the balcony. Over the overhang to the rib and… Rock Climbing
4-
Zub
Through the left part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zub
Through the chimney to the hourglass of the Tooth Decay route and to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Zub
In the valley wall via a double crack to the ledge to the hourglass. Up the edge into the… Rock Climbing
2+
Zub
Through the right part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ropucha
By the SW edge over the nose to the ledge and via the "Old Route" to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Ropucha
From the SW by a small crack and up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ropucha
By the NE edge over a K to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ropucha
By the SE edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ropucha
Along the steps and by the crack to the right in the E wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ropucha
Left of the SE edge over a large hole to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Ropucha
To the right in the N wall by a crack to the ledge and to the right to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Ropucha
In the N wall by a crack and up the wall over a K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Soví skála na ostrohu
To the left in the valley wall over the 2nd and 3rd K of the route "Bell Tolling for the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4-
Kovadlinka
In the left part of the S-face via the small balcony directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kovadlinka
In the left part of the W-face directly via the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6
Kovadlinka
From the left to the valley edge and via it through the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Kovadlinka
Directly through the middle of the upper facelet to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kovadlinka
Via the left upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kovadlinka
Via the right upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Karel
Via the chimney to the ledge on the N edge, then left via a disappearing crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Karel
To the left from the massif, traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Karel
Along the S edge over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Karel
From the chimney to the left onto the NE edge and over BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Karel
From the S chimney to the left onto the ledge of the route “For You, Karel”. Right over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Hladomorna
In the N wall via a crack to its end (sling), further to K. Left into the wall and back… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hladomorna
In the W wall via an overhang to the left to K. Through a recess to the balcony and via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Hladomorna
To the left in the SE wall along the edge over K to the ledge and via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Hladomorna
Through the middle of the W wall via a corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Hladomorna
In the W wall to the left to a small balcony. Via an overhanging arête to K, from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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