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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Vánoční hvězda
Up the wall along the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Vánoční hvězda
From N via the corner directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Rumburská věž
Up the narrow SW wall directly over the ring and pitons to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Supí hlava
Along the edge of the pillar over K n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Dámská věž
Along the SE edge to the small balcony and via the Transverse Route to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Dámská věž
Through the notch in the valley SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Havranpírko
Through the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Havranpírko
Through the chimney in the center of the valley wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Lidský masiv
Start right of the route "Eagle or Maiden" diagonally right into the W wall and over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4+
Štítek
By left edge n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Štítek
By wall along the right edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlčí doupě
By pillar left of the Left crack n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlčí doupě
Through the center of the valley wall by crack to the left edge of the ledge to K and by… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Vlčí doupě
By inclined wall over 2 K n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Štítek
Through the center of the valley wall over K n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vlčí doupě
Entry on the right by crack to the ledge to K. Along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Vlčí doupě
Left in the valley wall by crack n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vlčí doupě
From K to the right into the crack and by the edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlčí doupě
From SW by opposing chimney to the ring. From the left by crack and edge n.v. Rock Climbing
5+
Vlčí doupě
By narrow W wall to K and from the left along the edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Bota
By valley edge n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Bota
From the bivouac over an overhang and cracks n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Vlčí doupě
By double crack to the step and by another crack n.v. Rock Climbing
6
Vlčí doupě
In the valley wall, by a chimney to 1st K. Up to the ledge and right to 2nd K. Directly n… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Bota
Through the center of the S wall n.v. Rock Climbing
5
Snoopy
By wall to K and left crack n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Snoopy
By crack n.v. Rock Climbing
4+
Snoopy
By crack left of "Double roots" to K and n.v. Rock Climbing
6-
Snoopy
From West, by overhanging crack to K, by wall onto a ledge and upwards. Rock Climbing
2+
Snoopy
By East wall of the left pillar, upwards. Rock Climbing

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