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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Malá jehla
Up the left uphill NE edge, using a delicate dihedral to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
From the ledge in the N wall. Up the middle of the wall past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
In the N wall, up the crack to the ledge. Up the middle of the wall past the ring to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Schůdná věž
Up the crack in the left part of the uphill wall to the 1st ring. Up the crack over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Večerní věž
Through the crack in the middle of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
Start to the right of the old route. Up the wall via 3 rings to the summit. (3rd ring… Rock Climbing
2+
Schůdná věž
From the uphill side, traverse left and through the chimney to the saddle between the… Rock Climbing
5+
Večerní věž
Between the NW cracks, center of the wall (2 rings) n. v. Rock Climbing
4+
Večerní věž
From the pulpit left and west edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
Center of the south narrow wall through the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Večerní věž
From the block, southwest edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Večerní věž
Crack in the right part of the upper (NW) face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
Chimney from the south to the block. From the block under the overhang and traverse right… Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
In the left part of the valley wall, follow the crack to its end. Left in the notch,… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Večerní věž
Start. Old Friends Route (platform), edge over 2 rings to the platform. Pillar over 3rd K… Rock Climbing
5
Večerní věž
From the block under the south wall traverse right into the corner and up to the pulpit.… Rock Climbing
5+
Večerní věž
In the right part of the north face, follow a crack to the ring. Chimney and along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Večerní věž
In the left part of the north face, chimney to the block. Right to the crack and it to… Rock Climbing
6
Večerní věž
Start directly in line with the crack of "Old Friends Route", directly into the crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Večerní věž
In the left part of the upper northwest face into the chimney and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Večerní věž
Up the wall directly to the chimney.
4-
Papež
Through the chimney and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
5
4-
4-
2+
4+
Belmondo
To the left of c. Samotář, using a shallow depression onto a ledge and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Belmondo
To the left at the SW edge onto a ledge and up the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall

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