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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Amorek
Through the center of the downhill wall with a crack across BH, n. t. (no translation).
5+
Milenci
From the left to the downhill NE edge and over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Milenci
Along the left edge (to the massif), wall to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Milenci
From the edge to the ring. Up along the edge and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kyklop
Wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Kyklop
Through the crack in the right part of the wall upwards. Traverse left into the cave and… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Panák
Right downhill edge over BH n. t.
4+
Václavka
Through the center of the downhill wall over BH to the pre-summit (large clock). Edge n.…
2+
Václavka
From the saddle n. v.
4-
Václavka
Wall along the small falcon to the summit. (large clock on the left) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Doutník
From the foresummit into the valley face to a ring and straight up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Doutník
From the left valley edge right to a ring, higher up along the left edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Doutník
Right upper edge to the summit Rock Climbing
4-
Doutník
West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Doutník
Up the upper face diagonally left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Večernice
Climb the NE edge and wall past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
Climb the right overhanging NW edge under the overhang and left into the short chimney … Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Večernice
On the right in the arete wall, go left to the ring. Below the ring, go left to the rib.… Rock Climbing
4-
Večernice
Straight up the wall to the top towards the fixed ring. Rock Climbing
4+
Večernice
Climb the left overhanging edge past the ring to the balcony. Straight up the wall and… Rock Climbing
3
Večernice
Climb the right arete to the ledge and traverse slightly right into the overhanging wall.… Rock Climbing
5
Čarodějův učeň
From the highland side, traverse right. Up the crack and hand jam/layback to the balcony… Rock Climbing
5+
Čarodějův učeň
5
Čarodějův učeň
Up the right valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čarodějův učeň
Directly up the valley wall to the ring. Rock Climbing
5+
Čarodějův učeň
Up the middle of the wall from Čaroděj (Wizard) to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čarodějův učeň
Up the short, left highland edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Čaroděj
Along the edge to the route "Highland Edge" Rock Climbing
4+
Čaroděj
Up the chimney between the massif and the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Čaroděj
From the chimney, stemming to the balcony and up the slightly overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing

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