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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Čaroděj
Highland route up to the ledge. Right to the edge and using a fine crack to a step. Up… Rock Climbing
5
Čaroděj
From the collapsed block, follow the diagonal crack upwards and traverse diagonally left… Rock Climbing
6
Čaroděj
From the gully by Polednice, right along the edge through holes to the left to the ring.… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Čaroděj
Southeast edge over 3 bolts to the summit Rock Climbing
6-
Čaroděj
Briefly follow the crack of the valley path, then up the wall slightly to the right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5+
Čaroděj
Valley route to the ring. Right, overhanging hand jam/layback over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čaroděj
From the "Lexikon" massif, descend the wall to the large rib and then to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Čaroděj
Jump from the "Lexikon" massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
6-
Čaroděj
Along the edge to the ring and then right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Polednice
On the upland side, along the crack to the balcony, up the wall directly below the rappel…
4+
Polednice
To the right in the valley wall, up the crack into the corner and onto the ledge. Up a… Rock Climbing
4-
Polednice
Through the center of the southeast wall from the Noon Needle, up the crack and higher up… Rock Climbing
5+
Polednice
From the corner between the Wizard and the Noon Witch, up the overhanging crack to its… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Polednice
To the left in the valley wall, up the crack and higher up through cracks to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
3
Polednice
Up the southeast wall into the widening crack (hourglass) and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Polednice
From the upland side to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Polednice
Directly up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Srpnová věž
Start like HatueY but from the ring directly to the ring of Kubánec's route and continue… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Srpnová věž
Via the old route to the balcony. Over the overhanging edge past the ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Srpnová věž
To the left in the valley wall to the 1st ring. Right across the wall (crossing St. c.)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Srpnová věž
Up the SW edge under the overhang, then left and up the upper (W) face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Srpnová věž
In the left part of the north face under the overhang to a ring. From it, directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Srpnová věž
In the left part of the upper face, go up and left behind the edge to a ledge (hourglass)… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Srpnová věž
Start to the right of Kubánkova's route under the overhang, to the ring. From it,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Srpnová věž
From the Old Route platform, traverse into the south face and up the center of the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Srpnová věž
Up the face to the right of the NE edge to the Old Route platform. Then up that to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Srpnová věž
From the saddle, traverse the south face into the downward-sloping face, and up a notch… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Pyramida
From S up the overhanging face and a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Pyramida
Through the center of the downward-sloping face to a ledge, then up the face over a ring… Rock Climbing

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