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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Pyramida
Through the center of the downward-sloping face to a ledge, then up the face over a ring… Rock Climbing
2
Rybí oko
Up the upper edge, no variation. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5+
Pyramida
Up the north face over a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Pyramida
From the upper edge traverse right into the south face and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Pyramida
Up the upper edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Pyramida
Via a crack to the NE edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kachna
From the platform below the west face, into the overhanging crack and over the overhang… Rock Climbing
3
Kachna
In the right part of the northern (north-facing) face, up the shallow groove to the… Rock Climbing
?
Kachna
Up the crack in the left part of the north face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kachna
Up the crack in the east face to the hole and over the overhang to the ring. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8
Kachna
Up the left part of the south face directly over 2 rings, slightly to the right at the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Kachna
Up the center of the south face to the summit. Rock Climbing Spare Route
5+
Kachna
In the right part of the south face, up the crack to the hole and from there traverse to… Rock Climbing
2+
Kachna
Up the northern face to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Kachna
Up the center of the wall to the right of the 'V cesta' route, over 2 rings to the ledge.… Rock Climbing
3
Kachna
In the right part of the valley-facing (east) wall into the corner. Up the corner, later… Rock Climbing
2+
Věž u cesty
From the saddle traverse leftwards and by the recess n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Černá stěna
Through the middle of the wall, chimneying rightwards to the small balcony. On the left… Rock Climbing
5+
Černá stěna
From the platform below the SW wall along the edge to the hole (hourglass). Upwards to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Černá stěna
From the hourglass upwards and leftwards into the wide crack in the W wall. By the crack… Rock Climbing
5
Černá stěna
Rock Climbing
5
Černá stěna
Rock Climbing
3
Černá věž
From the S side through the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Černá věž
By the eastern edge and over the bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Černá věž
From the W gully, right onto the flake, up the crack n. v. Rock Climbing
5
Černá věž
Up the valley face of the adjacent pillar via K n. v. Rock Climbing
4-
Černá věž
Up the SW edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Černá věž
Up the wall and the crack under the abseil point via K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Černá věž
From the S, by a chimney between the tower and the boulder to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Lysohlávka
Right of the Old Route, by a corner n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1

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