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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the SE wall with a chimney to the upper balcony, step over to the crack…
4+
Rozpůlená skála
From the beginning of the gully between the tower and M, right along the wall to K and…
5+
Rozpůlená skála
In the valley wall with a chimney to K under the overhang and initially overhang with a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Rozpůlená skála
To the left on the valley side to K, briefly left to the edge of the balcony and right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Rozpůlená skála
To the right on the upper side, by a small wall to the summit.
6
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the valley wall over the overhang (hourglass) and left along the wall to… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger +1
6
Rozpůlená skála
To the right in the valley wall near a fine crack (v. hourglass) to K and along the edge…
4+
Rozpůlená skála
To the left of the west chimney, by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Rozpůlená skála
From the upper side, traverse left to the chimney.
2
Rozpůlená skála
Chimney in the west wall to the summit.
5
Dvojitá hlava
Via chimney at the NE edge to the ledge to the ring. Via the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Brána
Left of Kozlice, via chimney and short edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Left of the NE edge, via chimney between the tower and the fore-rock, later via the face… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Right of the Old Route, via crack and face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Central face along the rib to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Brána
From the plateau side right to the hand jam and to the bolt. Wall to the platform and to… Rock Climbing
4+
Brána
North face to the hand jam, around the birch tree into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Brána
In the north face, left of the north rib, follow the face towards the hourglass. Over a… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Brána
Chimney from the west to the platform below the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Brána
2m right of the southwest edge, wall diagonally right to the bolt of the Lancknecht route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Brána
Edge directly over the bolt to the bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Brána
Crack in the west face, over the bolt to its end. Over the overhangs to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Brána
Traverse through the holes in the north face and right to the edge to the bolt. Through… Rock Climbing
4-
Brána
Wall along the southeast edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Brána
In the right part of the south face to the ledge. Crack to its end and right to the bolt.… Rock Climbing
3
Brána
From the wedged block along the old route to the right, crack and wall straight to the…
2+
Brána
From the east, chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Brána
Through the center of the south face, crack, higher up wall to the left to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Poslední věž
Hand crack in the southeast face to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Poslední věž
From the large balcony on the Old Route to Double Head, descend about 1.5m to the ledge… Rock Climbing

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