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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Poslední věž
From the large balcony on the Old Route to Double Head, descend about 1.5m to the ledge… Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední věž
Southeast edge briefly upwards, crack to the right, and wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední věž
Left in the valley wall, crack and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Poslední věž
Center of the east face to K. Short crack above, wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Poslední věž
Right in the east face, edge to the large hourglass. Overhanging wall to K. Wall above,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Poslední věž
Right of the southeast crack into the hole above it 1st K. Wall over the ledge to the 2nd… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Poslední věž
Chimney between Double Head and Last Tower, later traverse into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Poslední věž
From the gully between the towers on the far left in the south face to K. Then a wide… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Poslední věž
In the valley wall into the overhanging chimney that narrows into a crack. Crack to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Poslední věž
Through the center of the valley wall using hand jams to the 1st bolt. Wall and over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Poslední věž
From the large ledge on the Old Route on the Double Head, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Poslední věž
Left of the old route, a wide overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Poslední věž
Right crack in the center of the south face to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Panenská věž
From the face, diagonally right over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow
4+
Mrzák
From the edge or from the East to the wide ledge to the ring. Up the face diagonally … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Trosky
Up the face to the left of the edge, traverse right to the edge (bolt). Up the edge to… Rock Climbing
5
Panenská věž
Center of the lower wall, up the crack to a step. Right to the edge and up to the 'clocks… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Trosky
Up the face to the right, over a step to the edge (bolt), and up the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Veronika
From the left, from the space between the massifs, up the crack to its end and over the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +2
6-
Veronika
From the left side of the valley edge, along the rib to the edge near the clock feature.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Bivaková stěna
To the left of the uphill chimney, using the corner to the pillar to the bolt (K). Up the…
7-/7
Bivaková stěna
Up the middle of the uphill wall, over the 'clock' and past 2 bolts (K) to the top.
6+/7-
Bivaková stěna
On the right in the uphill wall, across the huge 'clock' to the hole. Diagonally right to…
6
Bivaková stěna
To the right of the Valley Crack, up the wall passing 3 rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bivaková stěna
Completely on the right side of the wall, climb up into the crack and then up it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bivaková stěna
5
Bivaková stěna
To the left of the valley crack, along the edge to the shallow corner, then up it to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bivaková stěna
From the bivouac, over the overhang to the left onto the blunt edge. Up the edge across… Rock Climbing
5+
Bivaková stěna
To the right of the bivouac, over the overhang to the short (kr). Difficult, straight up… Rock Climbing
4-
Bivaková stěna
Up the middle of the SE wall on the right, to the top. Rock Climbing

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