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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Lokomotiva s tendrem
By the Obkročák route to the ledge. Through the wall to the left, over the ring to the… Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá věž
At the start of the "War of the Dumb..." route, crack to the end to the ring. From the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
9
Zarostlá věž
Left of Styk pohlavson overhanging edge into the hole and to the left to the first ring… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6-
Zarostlá věž
Corner in the NE wall, along the cracks to the right into the hole and from it under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8-/8
Zarostlá věž
From the valley, overhanging wall to the ring. Cracks into the hole and over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Zarostlá věž
With an edge to the ring. To the left, using the edge and a lieback to the hole … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Zarostlá věž
Variant of the Hübner route in the NE wall, overhanging crack and lieback to the ring.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Zarostlá věž
Overhanging lieback and crack in the NE wall to the Hübner traverse. Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
4+
Zarostlá věž
Crack to the left of Apollo 10 route and traverse left to the hole (hourglass). Up the NW… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlá věž
Crack to the left of the NW route onto a ledge (belay). Through the crack to its end … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
3
Zarostlá věž
Through the chimney in the NW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Zarostlá věž
Up the chimney in the NW wall to the horizontal notch, traverse right to the edge and up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Zarostlá věž
Left of the West edge, up the overhanging wall over the ring to the horizontal ledge … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Zarostlá věž
From the edge to the clock and further. From the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Zarostlá věž
3rd variant of the SE route into the groove. Up the wall over the ring directly to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
?
Zarostlá věž
Up the middle of the SW wall using the groove to the 1st ring. Up the wall into the hole… Rock Climbing
6
Zarostlá věž
From the clock in the hole, straight up the wall over the ledge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zarostlá věž
Up the wall left of the 2nd variant into the sloping groove and right into the crack of… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zarostlá věž
In the left part of the SW wall into the crack and up it to the top. (formerly artificial) Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zarostlá věž
From the block up the crack to the right to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlá věž
Up the crack in the right part of the SW wall to the SE route and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Zarostlá věž
Left of the South edge upwards, then diagonally right to the block in the SE wall.… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zarostlá věž
Shortly after the SE route to the block. Left along the edge (clock) over the overhang to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
From the balcony, Standard route left into the corner crack and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
Up the crack to the right of the corner to the balcony and up the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Zarostlá věž
Left of the Standard route, using holes to the left and to the edge to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Zarostlá věž
Up the corner in the middle of the East wall, then right into the chimney and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Zarostlá věž
Up the middle of the SE wall to the ring (on the ledge clock). Left up the short… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
František
Downhill wall of the pillar over 2K. to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bivoj
Through the crack to the bolt and the wall near the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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