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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Nevěsta a ženich
From the valley between the Groom and the Bride using a chimney over 2bh to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Nevěsta a ženich
By the wall near the NW edge over bh to the top. Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5
Nevěsta a ženich
In the southern wall of the Groom, left by a receding light corner (ring) onto a sloping… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6+/7-
Nevěsta a ženich
Along the valley edge of the Bride to K, slightly from the right to the clock, then using…
7/7+
Nevěsta a ženich
From the balcony through the center of the valley wall of the Groom over 2 K to the top.
5
Trpaslice
From the terrace on the N side, slightly from the left, by a slabby wall over BH to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Trpaslice
From the terrace on the N side, northern edge over BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Trpaslice
NW edge to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Vertical wall
5
Trpaslice
2 m to the right of the route Koukej mazat! straight up. Unprotected. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Trpaslík
Through the middle of the north wall to the ring and along the smooth edge to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Trpaslík
From the left to the right part of the south wall to the ring. Through the crack and wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Bukový masív
Start up the articulated wall along the SE edge into the hole. Along the edge over 2… Rock Climbing
5
Bukový masív
Up the pillar wall over 3 rings. Rock Climbing
5
Bukový masív
Through the crack in the middle of the south wall (possibly clip the ring) to the left… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bukový masív
In the left part of the south wall over 2 rings to the platform, then freely. Rock Climbing
4+
Bukový masív
Start to the left of the SE edge up the wall through the ring. Rock Climbing
2+
Bukový masív
Through the southern chimney over the wedged boulder freely. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bukový masív
To the left of the chimney, up the wall of the pillar over the point (belay) to the ring,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Bukový masív
Through the right eastern chimney over the wedged boulder. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Bukový masív
Through the narrow chimney into the articulated hole and by the summit notch of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Jericho
From the north from the plateau side by a crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7
Jericho
The UFO route attacks under the overhang, from there right into the chimney crack and… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
5
Bukový masív
Completely on the left of the massif, start from the terrace. By ladder to the crack,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5
Jericho
In the right part of the south wall diagonally to the right to the ring. Up to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
7
Jericho
In the left part of the south wall, through a crack and fissure over the overhang (UFO… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang
4
Jericho
Far left in the south face into the groove, up it and then freely. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
6-
Jericho
To the left of the SE edge, around the bulge via a ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
3
Čekatel
Edge to the right of the Chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čekatel
Right wider crack from S to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Čekatel
On the right in the East wall (1.5m from the edge) by a hand crack, then by an indistinct… Rock Climbing

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