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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Zdenička
Valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Soví věž
Crack in the right part of the south face over the overhang to the balcony and to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Soví věž
Up the middle of the face to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sova
In the gorge between Owl Tower and Owl to the overhanging crack on the south side and… Rock Climbing
5
Sova
Up the SE wall under the overhang. Over the overhang into the crack (circle) and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Sova
From the southwest edge diagonally right and over the step to the platform on the west… Rock Climbing
3
Sova
By the eastern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Sokol
Discord between the massif and the own tower and further by the route Precipice. Rock Climbing
6-
Sokol
Up the right diagonal wall across 2 circles directly to the summit. Climbed in summer… Rock Climbing
4-
Sokol
Drop from the foreland into the East wall and from the left around the massive clock to… Rock Climbing
2
Vrátnice
Up the Old Route to the ledge, traverse right to the ledge and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Vrátnice
To the right of the Old Route, up the wall. Across the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Vrátnice
From M down and jump to the pre-summit. Old Route n. v.
6-
Vrátnice
Up the wall, across the circle to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vrátnice
Up the left diagonal edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
5+
Vrátnice
On the right in the valley (NW) wall across the ring to the end of the wall and from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Vrátnice
On the left in the valley (NW) wall across 2 rings under the overhang (clock) and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2
Vrátnice
From the uphill side through the chimney and from the pillar briefly through the wall to… Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
3
Vrátnice
Through a part of the wall of the adjacent pillar. Old route n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Vrátnice
Right downhill edge to the top of the pillar. Old route to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
3
Vrátnice
Chimney from the valley side to the top Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
4-
Velká tovární věž
Up to the ledge, traverse right to the nest and through an overhanging crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Malá tovární věž
Through the middle of the S wall to the ring, then into the recess, through the gully to…
4-
Malá tovární věž
Up the SW edge to the ledge and through the crack in the W wall to the balcony on the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Max
From the W upwards, traverse left and up the corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Móric
From the SW traverse below the prominent overhang to the balcony. Up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
5
Móric
Up the NW edge, traverse into the N wall, and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rebeka
Up the notch in the SE edge, left onto the edge, and to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Rebeka
From the boulder below the N wall upwards, then up the NE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Rebeka
Up the right downhill (SW) edge, past 2K to the top. Rock Climbing

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