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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Zubní laborant
Up the downhill face from the left, then through the middle over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Zubní laborant
East edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Zubní laborant
Upland southern edge along the crack (knot) to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6
Zubní laborant
Along the left downhill edge over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
5
Zubní laborant
Up the face by the right downhill edge, over a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
4-
Hříbek
Right of the northwest edge to the overhang and left up the north face over a bolt to the… Rock Climbing
3
Hříbek
Start at the northeast edge directly to the hole. Right around the edge to the bolt. Rock Climbing
4-
Hříbek
Through the center of the southwest face through a crack under the overhang. Traverse… Rock Climbing
4-
Hříbek
Directly over the overhang to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Hříbek
Under the overhang in the east face, right to the edge, up and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Bezejmenná
On the left in the South face, short crack and face to the ring. Face under the overhang… Rock Climbing
5
Bezejmenná
On the right in the South face, oblique crack under the overhang. Overhang along the SE… Rock Climbing
4-
Bezejmenná
From the East to the foreland and over the overhang, along the right side to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bezejmenná
Center of the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Bezejmenná
5
Párátko
Center of the valley face to the ring. Groove to the ledge and SE edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Bezejmenná
Short crack from the West to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Párátko
From the North between the towers, crack to the balcony. Along the right edge to the… Rock Climbing
4-
Kulich
Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Párátko
Crack in the left part of the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Kulich
Overhanging edge in the right part of the uphill face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Kulich
Overhanging SE face (below the rappel) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Kulich
To the left of NC, directly up the face over a ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Kulich
Oblique crack in the SW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Kulich
To the left of c. Zmijovka, initially overhanging face directly over a ring n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Jižní roh
To the left of the crack, following the face, then overhanging face over K n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Masív nad Mouchou
Face, then higher up the edge over Bh. n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
4+
Moucha
Left S crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Moucha
Right part of the East face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Moucha
From the boulder directly up the face to the summit. Rock Climbing

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