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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Moucha
With a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Moucha
Over the prominent nose in the west wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Moucha
Right of the west route over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Moucha
From the pre-rock traverse left into the wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Moucha
Up the overhanging crack in the south wall to the end of the St. c. traverse. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Bratrská věž
From the massif, jump directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Bratrská věž
Up the NW edge to the balcony (clock). Up the edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Bratrská věž
Descend 3 m to the clock and jump to the tower. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
Up the wall left along the edge to the balcony. Up the edge to the ring and to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Bratrská věž
Right in the descending wall, up the slightly overhanging wall to the ledge. Up the wall… Rock Climbing
3
Bratrská věž
Up the edge past the ring to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Bratrská věž
Up the NE edge directly over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Věž Komářího údolí
Right in the west wall, over a hole to the ring. Up the wall into the chimney and to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
2+
Bratrská věž
Up the chimney between the massif and the tower, later left up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4
Tělocvična
Wall along the small pillar (clocks) to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Tělocvična
Fissure and chimney in the right part of the NW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Tělocvična
From the corner up to the birch tree and to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Tělocvična
Left part of the articulated wall, diagonally right to the "clocks". By rib to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Tělocvična
Center of the NW wall over the ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Tělocvična
First the fissure, then the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Tělocvična
From the north under the sloping rib to the left north edge to the ring. Edge past the… Rock Climbing
5
Tělocvična
Fissure from NE to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Tělocvična
Right downhill edge over 2Bh to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Mys dobré naděje
NW edge to the balcony and then along the Rychlý dech (Fast Breath) route. Rock Climbing
5+
Mys dobré naděje
In the right part, diagonally left across the overhanging west wall to the small pillar.… Rock Climbing
5
Mys dobré naděje
In the left part of the west wall, a corner to the balcony. Crack first, edge later, then… Rock Climbing
5+
Mys dobré naděje
In the right part of the west wall, a fissure to the balcony. Crack and edge to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Mys dobré naděje
Left edge of the overhanging block under the overhang. Over the overhang to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Mys dobré naděje
Center of the wall along the crack to the shelf. Over the ring to the next shelf and up… Rock Climbing
5
Kalymnos
Start from the sloping side, crack in the corner to the ledge, to the right to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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