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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Malý hlásný
From the North face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
6-
Malý hlásný
Center of the overhanging East face along fine cracks to the ring. Then up the wall along… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Prachatická věž
On the left in the northwest face, a small chimney to a bolt. Over the overhang around… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Prachatická věž
Right of the 'Strike to the Wings' route, up the face directly to a bolt. Left to the… Rock Climbing
5
Kleopatra
Left of the 'Capriole' route, up the chimney and crack over the overhang and up the face… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kleopatra
Jump from the Dwarf Tower. Rock Climbing
2+
Kleopatra
In the left part of the northwest face, rightwards into the chimney and up it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Kleopatra
Between the Dwarf Tower and Cleopatra, rightwards and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Vertical wall
4-
Kleopatra
From the massif, drop into the southeast face, traverse to the south edge, and to the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kleopatra
Up the southwest face near the left edge to a bolt. Along the edge to a hole (hourglass).… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kleopatra
From the chimney, traverse left to the first bolt. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kleopatra
Center of the southeast face, up a narrow crack under the overhang to a bolt. Up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Kleopatra
Right of the 'Price Adjustment' route, directly along the edge past two bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Kleopatra
Up the chimney in the southeast face to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Kleopatra
Left of the southeast route, up the face and a starting crack, n. v.
4-
Kleopatra
Up the face over the overhang, then higher via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kleopatra
From the northeastern plateau face, easily to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Sluneční věž
St. c. to the ledge. Traverse right to the East edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Sluneční věž
To the left of the East edge, climb the overhanging face via a ring to a ledge. Then… Rock Climbing
5
Sluneční věž
In the left part of the Northeast face, climb to the 1st and 2nd holes. From its right… Rock Climbing
5+
Sluneční věž
Climb directly along the edge to the summit and the abseil ring. Rock Climbing
4-
Sluneční věž
From the ledge of the Right North route, climb a corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Sluneční věž
From the boulder under the Northeast face, make a step into the face. Climb the center of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Sluneční věž
From the boulder near the North edge, go to the ledge to the circle and from its right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Sluneční věž
To the left of Separate. Take the Vchod do pitevny route to the circle. Traverse right to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Sluneční věž
From the Northwest, climb over the overhang to the circle. Over another large overhang… Rock Climbing
4-
Sluneční věž
From the boulder near the North edge, go diagonally right to the balcony and up a recess… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Sluneční věž
Follow the wide crack and recess in the center of the South face to the ledge of the Old… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Sluneční věž
In the valley face Southwest of the promontory, follow a crack to a ring. Continue up the… Rock Climbing
4+
Sluneční věž
On the left in the South face, follow a short crack under the overhang to a ring. Go up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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