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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Babinec
On the right in the W valley wall, from the block, drop into the crack and follow it to… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Babinec
Through the center of the W wall into the crack, to the balcony, and up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Babinec
Along the steps near the SW edge, through the hole to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Partnerský masív
Through the center of the wall to the ring, then straight ahead and higher left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Jižní plotnová věž
Through the crack in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Jižní plotnová věž
From the saddle on the uphill side traverse to the right to the center of the E wall and… Rock Climbing
4+
Žežická stěna
Through the center of the wall from the left to the ring, to the right and by a small… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Pašerácká stěna
"Valley route" from the bivouac through the crack under the overhang to its ring. Left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Otesánek
4-
Otesánek
5+
5+
Otesánek
Slightly right in the SW wall to K. and further n. t.
4+
Otesánek
4-
Salina jehla
Upland E edge. Not secured. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
5
Kukačka
Along the rounded NW edge over BH n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Kukačka
Along the SW edge over BH n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
2
Kukačka
Along the crack in the south wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4
Kukačka
Along the NW wall to the left of the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Vztyčená věž
Along the right valley edge over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vztyčená věž
From the 1st ring of the Hellish Route, right and through a crack (var. St. c.) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Vztyčená věž
In the NW wall, a crack into a hole to the ring. Upward into a chimney and along it to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vztyčená věž
Directly through the wall to the ring of the Hellish Route and from there directly… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Danger +1
6
Vztyčená věž
From the boulder near the E edge, diagonally right to the ring in the right part of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená věž
Along the edge to the hole with the clocks and right to the ring. Left and through a… Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená věž
Through the middle of the valley wall and to the St. c. clocks. This way to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená věž
Briefly along the St. c. to the clocks, then along the wall and a chimney (ring) to its… Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená věž
Through a crack in the SW wall to half the height of the tower and left to a hole. Upward… Rock Climbing
5+
Vztyčená věž
From the 2nd ring, a short traverse to the left and along the edge and crack to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Děravá věž
Overhang from the massif to the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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