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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Široká věž
From the ring traverse to the left and over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Široká věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Široká věž
Up the SE chimney a few meters and traverse to the left to the ring. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Široká věž
Up the overhanging crack in the SE wall to the ring. By standing in the crack and onto a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Široká věž
Along the running crack to the left in the SE wall to the platform of the old route. Up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Široká věž
Start in the corner of the Než se kdo naděje route. From the corner to the left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Široká věž
By contrast between the massif and the left part of the NE wall to the ledge. Near the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Široká věž
To the right of the Na přilepek route, up the edge to the shelf and then past the ring to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Široká věž
From V up the chimney to the massive pillar and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Široká věž
V up the edge to the pillar. Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Široká věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Široká věž
From the ravine between the massif and the tower, up the delicate wall under the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Široká věž
Up the wall to the left of the Smutná cesta to the ring, then up the crack and wall to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Široká věž
From the massif down to the lowest point, step over and a short wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Široká věž
Following the Následuj mě do tmy route (Tower in the corner) to the large holds, fall… Rock Climbing
3
Široká věž
Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Široká věž
Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Široká věž
Start between the massif and the tower. In the right part of the wall from the boulder… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6+/7-
Široká věž
Through the center of the pillar, up the wall past two rings to the 2nd ring of route c.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Široká věž
Up the wall past the added Bh and two rings of route c. Modrotisk to the 1st ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Široká věž
To the right of the Pochod svatých route, up the wall past 2 rings and behind the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Široká věž
Up the chimney from the NW towards the holds and right to the ring. At the level of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8+/9-
Široká věž
To the right of the Modrotisk route, directly through the wall past 4 bh and holds to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Široká věž
Up the crack in the rounded west edge to a ring. Over an overhang into a recess and left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Široká věž
From the wall across two rings under the overhang. Over it into the hole and a large rib … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Široká věž
Left of Angel's Edge, up the wall past the 2nd rings directly to the second ring of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Široká věž
From the 1st ring of the Angel's Edge route, up the overhanging crack strenuously to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Široká věž
From the left edge of the recess to the left, up to the crack in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7/7+
Široká věž
Start to the right of Angel's Edge. Overhang to the left into a hole and from it right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Široká věž
In the right part of the south recess to a ceiling crack. Up to a platform, then into a… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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