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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Děravá věž
Briefly up the NE crack and traverse (bolt) left into the crack. Up it to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Děravá věž
Overhang from the massif to the wall and to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Děravá věž
From Varhanní stěna (Organ Wall) Rock Climbing
4-
Děravá věž
Up the right crack in the NE wall 2m, traverse right into the wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Děravá věž
On the left on the NW side, up a blocky crack to the balcony. Up the north edge (BH) to … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Děravá věž
Up a crack in the upland NE wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Děravá věž
From NW up a crack and wall to the bolt, right to the edge and up it to the sub-summit… Rock Climbing
3
Děravá věž
From the block in front of the SW edge traverse left around the S edge and then to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Děravá věž
Downhill edge to K then to the crack.
5
Děravá věž
Up a crack in the right part of the SW wall to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Děravá věž
Traverse from the S edge to the left and up a wide crack. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Varhanní stěna
Up the wall and through a crack past a ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Varhanní stěna
Along the edge past a ring and from the left up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Vztyčená jehla
Center of the Valley wall through a crack left to a ring. Up and left behind the edge to… Rock Climbing
4+
Wuttkeho věž
Through a crack near the west edge to a block and from its right edge through a crack to… Rock Climbing
4-
Wuttkeho věž
Following the southwest path, through a crack to a block and then along an edge to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Wuttkeho věž
Easily up the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Netopýří stěna
Start in the SW wall. Then to the SW edge and along it over the clocks to the 2nd ring c.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Netopýří stěna
Right route to the ring. Traverse right to the W edge and along it (ring) to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8/8+
Netopýří stěna
Route Jethro tull into the big hole, then slightly right to 1. K c. Sleepy path. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Netopýří stěna
In the left part of the wall, over the overhang and corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Netopýří stěna
Route W edge to the 1st ring. Directly up the pillar (ring) into the crack of the already… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Soudek
From the uphill side, up the E edge, right and up the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soudek
Up the center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Soudek
Up the center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soudek
Up the crack in the descending SW wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soudek
Up the right part of the NE wall to the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Soudek
From the edge to the ring and diagonally right up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Soudek
Up the wall to the left of the S edge, directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Soudek
By the edge, higher to the left, up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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