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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Sluneční věž
On the left in the South face, follow a short crack under the overhang to a ring. Go up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Sluneční věž
To the left of the start of the Old Route, climb into the face and follow it past a… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Ztracenka
From the V foreland, jump to the summit Rock Climbing
2+
Ztracenka
From the uphill side by the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ztracenka
By the wall along a crack and hollow to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
From the uphill side by the right crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ztracenka
By the northern edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ztracenka
By cracks to the left of the west pillar to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Ztracenka
Through the center of the NW wall briefly to a rib and to the right to a ring. By the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Ztracenka
In the left part of the NW wall along a crack and hollow to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Ztracenka
By the western pillar over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Ztracenka
To the right of the west pillar by cracks to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
On the left in the SE wall by a rib and higher up along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
By a prominent corner to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Ztracenka
By the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ztracenka
On the right in the south wall by a rib to the left onto a ledge, by a crack and hollow… Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
N as the original route, then, then by a crack directly, n. v. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ztracenka
Through the center of the SE wall along a crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Ztracenka
From the SW by the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Ztracenka
To the left of route SE corner, by a slanting crack and the wall to the left to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
By the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Ztracenka
On the right in the SE wall by a corner and crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Babinec
Through the center of the S wall, to the left to a small hole and then to the right… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Babinec
SE with a subtle edge and a recess to the left, then to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Babinec
On the right, in the S wall, an overhanging face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Babinec
On the left in the N wall, into the hole and to the right through a recess to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Babinec
Up the narrow wall under the rappel to the small balcony and to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Babinec
Through the center of the N wall, over a bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Babinec
On the left in the W wall, a crack to the platform, a corner to the right to the balcony,… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Babinec
On the right in the N wall, a hand crack to the ledge and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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