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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7/7+
Široká věž
Start to the right of Angel's Edge. Overhang to the left into a hole and from it right,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Široká věž
From the left edge of the recess to the left, up to the crack in the middle of the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Bludiště
Behind "The Keg", up the wall and wide crack past a bolt. Rock Climbing
5+
Bludiště
On the right in the southwest wall, past 2 bolts. Rock Climbing
4-
Bludiště
Up the short southeast face to a small crack and up it. Rock Climbing
4+
Bludiště
Up the south edge, past a bolt. Rock Climbing
5+
Bludiště
Up the left corner to embedded blocks and a corner crack to a balcony. Up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Bludiště
Climb the wall to the crack and up it. Rock Climbing
4-
Bludiště
From the embedded boulders, up the right corner. Rock Climbing
6-
Bludiště
Up the wall behind "The Keg", left of the wide crack, past 3 bolts. Rock Climbing
4+
Bludiště
Up the right corner crack to a block and from it right to the edge. Up the edge to the… Rock Climbing
6
Bludiště
Up the right edge (left of the corner crack in the center of the wall) past a bolt. Rock Climbing
5
Bludiště
In the right part of the wall behind "Wide Tower", a chimney with opposition technique. Rock Climbing
6-
Bludiště
On the edge of the gorge between "Wide Tower" and the massif, a crack to a step to a bolt… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Bludiště
From the embedded blocks, climb the SE-facing wall past 3 bolts and an overhanging crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Bludiště
At the entrance to the gorge, climb the wall past the 1st bolt into a deep corner. Climb… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bludiště
From the space between "Tower in the Corner" and the massif. Chimney with opposition… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Bludiště
In the gorge between "Wide Tower" and the massif, in its left part, a wide crack past a… Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová vež
In the valley face, crack to the lower block, traverse left to the NW face and up a crack… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Vřesová vež
Like Arnold's route to the step. Slightly right and up the face over the ring into the… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Vřesová vež
Up the S edge over the ring to the step. Up a crack over an overhang and another crack to… Rock Climbing
4+
Věž v koutě
Chimneying on the tower to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová vež
Crack in the valley SW face to the balcony to the ring. Stemming up the crack, traverse… Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová vež
Up the valley face to the second balcony to the ring. Diagonally left into a fine crack… Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová vež
From the end of the crack, traverse right and directly up a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová vež
To the chipped block in the valley face (also from the gully). Traverse left and up a… Rock Climbing
4+
Vřesová vež
Chimneying crack near the S edge, later the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Vřesová vež
From the Tower in the corner, descend left, traverse, step across, and up the S edge to… Rock Climbing
6
Vřesová vež
From the 2nd ring of Sagamor, directly up the face using the hand crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Vřesová vež
From the massif, jump to the S edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing

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