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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Orel
Through cracks in the upland wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Orlice
From the scree at the beginning of the chimney entrance, through cracks and fissures to… Rock Climbing
5+
Orel
From the upland side, go right to the S edge, up to the platform in the upland wall and… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Orlice
Jump from the massif. Rock Climbing
6-
Orel
To the left of the Valley Route, along the edge over two circles to the ledge. From the… Rock Climbing
5
Orel
Through the fissure in the left part of the SW wall to the ledge and via the old route to… Rock Climbing
6
Orel
Through the center of the valley wall over the circle directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Orel
Start along the right edge to the balcony, then as Grass fissure. Rock Climbing
2+
Orel
From the plateau side, traverse left into the valley wall and through a fissure to the… Rock Climbing
5
Orel
Through a wide recess in the west wall upwards, right (hours) to the edge to the circle.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Orel
Fissure to the ledge in the old route and to the right of it an overhanging fissure. Rock Climbing
3
Pohádka
Along the edge of the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Orel
Via the old route briefly to the left, over the overhang upwards to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing
5
Pohádka
Through the center of the pillar between the cracks (circle) to the ledge, freely and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Pohádka
Fissure around the birch tree to the top Rock Climbing
4-
Pohádka
Through a crack and a fissure to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Pohádka
Through a crack to the ledge and freely to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Othello
Up the right part of the west wall, over 2 rings, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6
Othello
On the left in the west wall, over 2 rings, up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Hamlet
From the massif a step over to the right part of the upper wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Terrayho stěna
Overhanging wall to the ring and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho stěna
By chimney to the ring, wall and crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Terrayho stěna
Wall to the clocks, to the right into the recess and to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Malý popravčí kámen
Rock Climbing
5
Popraviště
Through the center of the downhill wall, past a bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Popraviště
On the right in the uphill wall, up an indistinct corner (large clock) to a ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Popraviště
Up the left downhill edge, past a bolt to a ledge to the 2nd bolt. Up the edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Popraviště
From the sloping slab below the SE wall into an overhanging crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Popraviště
Up the left uphill edge and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Popraviště
Through the center of the uphill wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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