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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

Přeskok
Vřesová vež
From the massif, jump to the S edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesová vež
From the saddle, chimneying and up the face of the massif to the ring. NE edge to the… Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová vež
From the NE edge, go left into the crack and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová vež
Near the left edge of the NE wall, along the small cracks to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Vřesová vež
Crack to the left of the E edge to the abseil ring. Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová vež
From the boulder in the ravine into the crack, higher up into another crack and to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová vež
Through the center of the S wall along the small cracks to the step to the ring. Up the… Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesová vež
Directly through the center of the wall into the S wall route and that n. v Rock Climbing
7-/7
Vřesová vež
Through the center of the S wall via 2K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vřesová vež
Up the chimney between the S wall and the massif, then diagonally right to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Vřesová vež
Old route to the step in the crack. Left crack to the ledge to the 'clock'. Crack, higher… Rock Climbing
6-
Vřesová vež
Along the S edge to the hole and left to the 1st ring of the S route. Rock Climbing
5
Vřesová vež
Through the chimney in the NW wall. Rock Climbing
6-
Berlínská zeď
By overhang (1st ring) to the ledge and along cracks to the 2nd ring. By the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Koráb
From the area between Koráb and Čert through the wall via ring to the summit Rock Climbing
4+
Koráb
From the gully between Gert and Koráb, through the fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
NW edge using a crack to the balcony. Wall diagonally to the left to the fissure and it… Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
From the chimney in the N corner through the crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
From the gully from the Devil SW rib to its end. Wall (ring) and crack, higher along the… Rock Climbing
6-
Koráb
In the W face through cracks and chimney to the ring. Wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Koráb
Left in the NE face via ring into the crack and through it to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Orlice
Chimneying to the ledge and over the overhanging wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Orlice
To the right of the route "valley wall" through the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Orlice
From the E, a small wall to the ledge and an overhanging wall to the ring. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
2+
Orlice
From the W through a chimney. Rock Climbing
4+
Orlice
On the right in the valley wall, through a fissure to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Orlice
From the slope diagonally to the right to the ring. Right along the SW edge to the corner… Rock Climbing
6
Orlice
On the left in the valley wall, along an indistinct edge and a short rib to the ring.… Rock Climbing
5+
Orlice
From the slope in the SW wall, a short rib to the 1st ring. Through the wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Orlice
Along the edge to the ledge and through the fissure near the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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