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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Čekatel
Left crack from S to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
By a winding crack into a hole and up the wall over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
From the block near the SE edge, by a step-over into the wall (ring) and to the right up… Rock Climbing
5+
Čekatel
On the right in the East wall (1.5m from the edge) by a hand crack, then by an indistinct… Rock Climbing
2+
Čekatel
From North, in the left part of the wall, by corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Čekatel
From North, by a crack to the balcony, over the overhang to the left and by a shallow… Rock Climbing
3
Čekatel
To the right of the route "Mud" by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
By the NE edge (hourglasses) over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Čekatel
By the SW wall into the niche, above it to the ring and directly to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Čekatel
From the West, by rib to the balcony and another rib by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4-
Čekatel
From NW by corner to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
By the SW edge, over the overhang directly (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Čekatel
By the West wall over the hourglasses and ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Čekatel
By chimney from the South to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Čekatel
By corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Čekatel
To the left of the Chimney, over an overhang and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Červená věž
Right of the Old Route, up the short edge to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Červená věž
From the massif, jump to the ledge. Rock Climbing
2+
Červená věž
Up the chimney using opposition technique between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Červená věž
From the West corner between the towers. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Červená věž
In the right part of the exposed face, using small holds and over a hole to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Červená věž
Up the right exposed edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Červená věž
From the exposed area in the middle of the South face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Červená věž
Directly up the SW edge into a small notch and then up a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Červená věž
Right valley edge over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Červená věž
In the right part of the West corner, a crack to the balcony on the West side of the… Rock Climbing
5+
Červená věž
Right of the West corner to a K. Right to the edge and up it to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Červená věž
In the middle of the lower South face, a crack and over an overhang onto a ledge. Up the… Rock Climbing
3
Červená věž
In the corner between the towers to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Zdenička
Up the middle of the north face over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2

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