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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Bivoj
From the corner in the left part of the pillar, through the wall over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bivoj
Through the crack to the bolt and the wall near the edge n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Hráč
Through the crack with the help of the chimney to the balcony (hourglass). Through the…
4+
Totem
Crack n. t.
5
Totem
Narrow downhill wall of the pillar along the crack (bh) to the boulder, then along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Totem
In the left part of the massif from the block, the wall diagonally to the left over K to… Rock Climbing
6
Totem
Along the obtuse edge over K to K of the "Spirit of the Rocks" route and then n. t. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Podzimní věž
From the massif, jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní věž
Completely to the right, along the uphill edge, wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Podzimní věž
From the massif, descend or traverse along the overgrown footbridge, fall into the West… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní věž
In the right part of the South wall, small chimney to the edge to the ring. To the right,… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní věž
From the ring, along the edge straight to the summit. Rock Climbing
?
Podzimní věž
To the right of the start of the SE route into the recess. Thin crack (protection),… Rock Climbing
5
Podzimní věž
Through the middle of the South uphill wall, over the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Podzimní věž
Constantly along the edge and from the ring to the right, crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Podzimní věž
To the left of the "Valley Route", through the middle of the wall straight into the work,… Rock Climbing
5+
Podzimní věž
Downhill chimney to the clocks and left to the ring. Left upwards over the overhang to… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Podzimní věž
5
Podzimní věž
From the ring, SE c. traverse to the edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Karel
In the right wall, crack and then wall over the pine tree to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Podzimní věž
From the valley, chimney and wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Podzimní věž
From the uphill side, chimney between the tower and M n. v.
5+
Karel
Slightly to the right of the right lower edge, through a hole to the 1st ring, wall along… Rock Climbing
4+
Karel
Crack in the V wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Karel
By the left valley edge to the added ring, from it slightly to the right over a large… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Karel
East wall to the left of the crack over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Karel
To the right of the "Jako zamlada" crack, over two rusty rings n. t. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Nevěsta a ženich
Through the center of the NE wall over 3 bh. to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
2
Nevěsta a ženich
From the upper side by a chimney Rock Climbing Route in shadow Laid wall
7-/7
Nevěsta a ženich
To the left of route Věno over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Overhang

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