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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Lysohlávka
Up the NE edge on steps to K and over the belly n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Lysohlávka
Center of the S face to the crack and up it n. v. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4+
Lysohlávka
On the right in the S face, by an overhanging wall to K. Up the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
5
Lysohlávka
Center of the E face via K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Lysohlávka
From the W, by an overhanging corner n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Lysohlávka
Up the plateau wall easily to the summit. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay +1
4-
Lysohlávka
On the right in the valley face, by an overhanging crack to the balcony to K. Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
6-
Lysohlávka
In the recess in the right part of the valley (S) face to K. Up the slab via the 2nd K n.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
7-/7
Neznámá věž
Via "Jaban a Jeban" to the 1st ring. Directly along the edge (slings, loops) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Březový roh
In the middle of the highland wall into a crack and groove to the summit. Rock Climbing Laid wall
6-
Koutová věž
Through the V wall over K n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Koutová věž
Up the left upper edge n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5+
Koutová věž
Up the right valley (NW) edge, past 2 Bh n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4-
Koutová věž
On the left in the valley wall, through a corner into the saddle and then along the right… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
2+
Koutová věž
By a chimney between the massif and the tower n. v. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
5
Babka
From the right, over the west edge (the 'clock') to the sloping ledge into the northwest… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Věž nad cestou
Through the center of the valley wall to the small falcon-shaped rock feature, then onto… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
4+
Věž nad cestou
Up the northwest edge, past K to the ledge, and then along the valley route n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Věž nad cestou
From the south edge, traverse right into the northeast wall and up the steps to the… Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
6-
Borovička
In the North face of the platform, diagonally to the left to a bolt. Up the face and to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
8
Borovička
In the right part of the lower face, up the face to a ring and to the right along the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
3
Borovička
Near the East edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Borovička
The route is in the South face of the platform. From the slope to the right to a bolt. To… Rock Climbing
4-
Borovička
In the North face, via a small rib to the left into the center of the face and up it to… Rock Climbing
4-
Borovička
Up the right West edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Borovička
In the center of the West face, to the right of the pine tree.
2+
Borovička
Along the NE rounded edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Kóta 7
Along the receding rib to the stainless steel ring, then right and up the crack to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Rozpůlená skála
To the left in the upland overhang, along the edge to the summit.
2
Rozpůlená skála
From the upper side near the gully to the summit.

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