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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Belmondo
To the left of c. Samotář, using a shallow depression onto a ledge and up the middle of… Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
3
Belmondo
To the left at the SW edge onto a ledge and up the edge. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
2+
Belmondo
Through a crack in the SW wall onto a ledge and freely to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Laid wall
4+
Belmondo
On the right side of the east wall to K and then up the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Vertical wall
5+
Belmondo
Center of the south wall over 2K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun
5
Belmondo
Center of the east wall, up cracks to the ledge to K of route c. Times are bad, Kamil,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
2+
Belmondo
From the gully, up the chimney over the wedged boulder. Rock Climbing Route in shadow Textile belay +1
4+
Belmondo
From the gully, up the crack to its end and to the right to the rappel. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7
Vůl
Crack in the north wall over K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
6
Vůl
Start at the right edge of the east wall (clean... no rocks to the right). Up the wall… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vůl
Rounded edge over K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vůl
Right crack in the downhill wall. Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
5
Vůl
Briefly through the gully, traverse to the corner and up it. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vůl
Hand crack in the west side wall. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vůl
In the left part of the downhill wall. Shoulder crack, higher up the steps. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Vůl
By gully (cracks, blocks). Rock Climbing Route on sun Textile belay
4+
Lesní duch
Left of the South crack, up the wall to the ledge, then further n. v. (no translation).
3
Lesní duch
In the south wall, through a crack, n. v. (no translation).
5+
Lesní duch
Through the center of the NE wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Lesní duch
In the left part of the North wall, through a crack and a wall (Bh), then higher up… Rock Climbing
3
Lesní duch
Along the SE edge along cracks, n. v. (no translation).
4+
Lesní duch
Along the right uphill edge, n. v. (no translation).
3
Lesní duch
From the NE via a corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lesní duch
Right of the Downhill Crack, along the wall near the small chimney and then up the wall…
5+
Lesní duch
Along the NE edge, then higher up via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Lesní duch
On the left in the SW wall, through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Lesní duch
Left of the Old Route on the downhill edge to the balcony and then n. v. (no translation).
4-
Lesní duch
In the center of the North wall, through a crack and a chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Milenci
From the balcony along the NW edge to the ring, then along the edge to the ledge and the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Milenci
From the edge by the chimney to the ring, then traverse left upwards to the ledge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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