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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Snoopy
Along the edge into the left crack and up it, upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Snoopy
By crack in the right part of the valley wall, upwards. Rock Climbing
2+
Snoopy
By East wall of the left pillar, upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Snoopy
Through the middle of the right pillar, upwards. Rock Climbing
5
Čudlovo ucho
In the left part of the valley wall over BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Ostříž
Via the right part of the plateau wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Ostříž
Up the valley wall over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Ostříží masív
On the right, up the wall over 2 K n. v. Rock Climbing
3
Ostříží masív
By a corner to the right of the edge n. v. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Palička
In the left part of the valley face, overhang to K, upwards into a crack and n. t.
5
Školka dráček
Through the center of the S wall over the holes to K and by the wall n. v. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Invalidovna
By the left descending edge over K n. t.
5+
Sokolí věž
Old route to the sloping ledge. Through a crack in the middle of the wall to its end,… Rock Climbing
6-
Sokolí věž
From the hole on the edge to the right and through the middle of the south wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Cylindr
In the left part of the overhanging wall to the first K, then to the ledge to the second… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Hraniční stěna
Start 4 meters to the left of the route "Broken Crack" around the diagonal crack leading… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Žabovřesky
Directly down the keel to the clocks. From the left to the top.
4-
Přední stráž
2
Přední stráž
In the S side, slightly of the random saddle to the advanced block. Left by the edge to…
2+
Přední stráž
To the left of the Old Route, straight up the wall to the top.
6
Koblížek
Through the middle of the downhill wall over bh to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Přední stráž
5+
Malá jehla
In the left part of the J wall, through a crack diagonally to the left into the alcove.… Rock Climbing
5+
Malá jehla
In the center of the J wall, through a crack, higher up the wall diagonally to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Malá jehla
From the uphill side, traverse to the N wall, up the crack and the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Malá jehla
Up the middle of the N wall past the ring to the ring of the Vzpoura prstů route and up… Rock Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
On the left in the N wall, up the small cracks past the ring to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
Through a crack in the right part of the J wall into the alcove. By a notch and the wall… Rock Climbing
4-
Malá jehla
Up the edge directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Malá jehla
Up the left uphill NE edge, using a delicate dihedral to the summit. Rock Climbing

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