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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

3
Vidlička
North chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Vidlička
By chimney between the tower and the massif, higher up like the Overfall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Vidlička
In the left part of the South face, by wall and by depression to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Vidlička
Center of the West face over hourglass, directly by edge to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malíček
Right of the Plateau Path up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
From the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Malíček
Crack in the South edge to the Old Path and up that to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Malíček
Left of "Path from the Ravine" over a ring to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Malíček
Left of the West edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Malíček
Center of the valley wall to the right under the overhang (loop). Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Malíček
West edge to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Malíček
In the valley wall, up to the gash, traverse right and South edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Šmudla
Center of the South face, overhanging and crack to K, right to K "Karlovy cesty" (Charles… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +2
4-
Malíček
Center of the plateau path to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Šmudla
Through the middle of the S wall over an overhang into a recess, via which to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Šmudla
Start in the E wall, via an overhanging wall to a horizontal ledge and traverse about 3m… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Šmudla
Between Šmudla and Kulihrášek via the broken crack to the hourglass formation, step… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Šmudla
Descend 2m from the balcony of the Old Route to Kulihrášek, via the overfall and the wall… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Šmudla
In the left part of the S wall left onto the edge and up along it. Rock Climbing
5
Šmudla
In the left part of the S wall into a hole, traverse along the ledge into the W wall and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Šmudla
To the right in the upper N wall briefly upwards. Traverse right behind the NW edge to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Šmudla
Upwards via the crack at the NW wall to the balcony, higher up along the edge and… Rock Climbing
4-
Nešika
Upwards via the crack on the left in the valley wall. Rock Climbing
5
Nešika
To the left of the "East Route" via an overhanging wall over the bolt onto the ledge and… Rock Climbing
6-
Nešika
In the right part of the valley wall over the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing
4-
Nešika
Upwards from the left via the middle of the upper wall. Rock Climbing
2+
Nešika
From the massif, step across to the left upper edge and traverse onto the ledge. Rock Climbing
2+
Nešika
To the right in the E wall via a groove onto a ledge in the valley wall, upwards from the… Rock Climbing
2+
Nešika
Through the chimney on the left in the valley wall onto the ledge of the adjacent massif,… Rock Climbing
2+
Nešika
From the upper side via the overfall right to the edge and up along it. Rock Climbing

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