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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Kyklop
Via the 'Západní kout' (West Corner) route to the small balcony on the left and from… Rock Climbing
5+
Kyklop
Start in the W face via the 'Hříčka snů' (Whim of Dreams) route. Briefly through the… Rock Climbing
6
Kyklop
Start right of the 'Hříčka snů' (Whim of Dreams) route between two cracks over 2 pitons… Rock Climbing
3
Kyklop
Through the chimney over a jammed boulder, higher up to the left to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Kyklop
From the left over a friable overhang into a crack (3m right of the route 'Western… Rock Climbing
6-
Kyklop
Through a narrow crack in the W face over a piton to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Kyklop
Up the SW edge to the ramp and diagonally left up the W wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Kyklop
To the left in the S wall through a hollow and crack to the pre-summit. Up the Old route… Rock Climbing
5+
Kyklop
In the right part of the W wall diagonally left to K and from the left to a large plateau… Rock Climbing
4+
Kyklop
To the right in the W wall through a crack over a sloping ramp to a large plateau and to… Rock Climbing
3
Kyklop
4m to the right of the edge of the "Old route" over the band to the balcony. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Kyklop
Through a short chimney between the fore-rock and the S wall, higher up steps to the… Rock Climbing
?
Kyklop
From the S wall to the block and balcony, route 'Christmas'. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Nad bažinami
By the rightmost part of the wall over a bolt (added) and bh (added) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
7-/7
Libušina stěna
Left of the Rusty Crack by the wall with small sharp holds (bolt) to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5+
Libušina stěna
By the crack in the S wall to its end and higher left by the friable wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Viklan
Left in the West face via a crack to K and along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Viklan
Left of the notch along the edge over 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Viklan
Via a notch in the valley face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Umíněnec
Left of the Old Route, a notch leads to the pre-summit plateau. Old route to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
Between the massif and the tower, up the double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Labyrint
Up the wide corner crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
From the gorge between 'Klec bláznů' (Fools' Cage) and 'Labyrint' (Labyrinth), up the… Rock Climbing
4-
Labyrint
From the large platform in the left part of the wall into the corner and through it to… Rock Climbing
4+
Labyrint
Approach from the large platform on the North side. From the right edge, traverse under… Rock Climbing
5+
Labyrint
On the left in the West face, up the crack to the ledge and along the edge (K) to the… Rock Climbing
5
Labyrint
Approach as for the route 'Dance in the Holes'. Up the overhanging rib over K and higher… Rock Climbing
4+
Labyrint
From the large platform, up the overhanging wall to the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
Up the crack to the fore-summit and then freely to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Labyrint
Up the crack and higher up the wall to the ledge, and then through the center of the… Rock Climbing

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