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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Ferdinandův roh
From the plateau side, right over steps to the S edge and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Ferdinandova jehla
From the uphill side to the fore-rock and over the overhang (using artificial aids) into… Rock Climbing
4-
Rosnička
Through the crack to the right of the "Stará cesta" (Old Route) to a ledge, traverse… Rock Climbing
6
Rosnička
In the left part of the valley NE wall, through an overhanging crack to a balcony. Left… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
4+
Rosnička
To the right in the valley wall into an alcove, through an overhanging corner and up the… Rock Climbing
3
Rosnička
Along the uphill edge over an overhang to a balcony and via the "Stará cesta" (Old Route)… Rock Climbing
3
Mlynařík
From the uphill side, up the wall to the left to the right edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Rosnička
Through the crack to the right of the uphill edge into an alcove, left to a balcony, and… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Mlýnské kolo
To the right of the start of the 'Mlat' route, along a short edge to an overhang and up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
5+
Mlýnské kolo
Through the corner crack to the ring, from there diagonally left up a gully to a ledge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mlýnské kolo
Through the right crack to the ledge and up a small chimney into the corner to the ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Mlýnské kolo
Through the left crack to the ledge and up a small chimney into the corner to the ring of… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Mlýnské kolo
Through the chimney in the right part of the wall to a boulder, and diagonally up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Mlýnské kolo
From the 1st ring of the 'Papuncháchul' route, up the wall over 2 bolts to the 3rd ring… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6
Mlýnské kolo
From the hiking trail, straight up the wall to the ring, diagonally left through a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Strážce soutěsek
In the valley wall, up the wall to a plateau, first right then directly up the wall to… Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce soutěsek
In the middle of the West wall, up the gully and wall right to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Strážce soutěsek
Directly up the plateau edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Strážce soutěsek
From the saddle, traverse left into the East wall and up the middle of the wall to the… Rock Climbing
6
Topograf
Up the middle of the valley wall past 2 rings, higher up the wall and corner under the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Pidižvík
From the plateau side along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Zakrslá věž
By the left plateau edge to the top (using steps on the right side). Rock Climbing
6-
Francouzský parčík - pilíř
Through the middle of the prominent pillar in the left part of the wall to the ledge … Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +3
4-
Koráb
From the bivouac right over the overhang. By crack to the ledge, by wall upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
6
Francouzský parčík - pilíř
Start left of the Valley Route over the ledge (bolt), along the edge to the shelf (bolt)… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
3
Koráb
Start in the center of the massif (route 'Subterranean River'). Diagonally forward over…
3
Koráb
By crack left of the large corner to the ledge and by the left crack upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
By rib in the west face to a large hole (slings) to the piton, by structured wall upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Koráb
From the left over the piton to a prominent edge in the right part of the wall and along… Rock Climbing
6
Koráb
By edge right of the route "Four Captains" directly to a large ledge and directly to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay

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