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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Náhrobní kámen
In the right part of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6
Náhrobní kámen
On the plateau face along a fine crack directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Náhrobní kámen
Through the crack in the plateau face to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Náhrobní kámen
Up the narrow wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Náhrobní kámen
In the left part of the NE overhanging wall to the ring and from the left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Náhrobní kámen
Up the overhanging valley edge over the overhang directly to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Náhrobní kámen
In the left part of the valley wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Čtyřlístek
In the right part of the wall through the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Čtyřlístek
Along the left edge up the wall directly to the hourglass and up the wall slightly right… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Čtyřlístek
From the small crack up the wall directly over the bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
6+/7-
Rojovník
To the left on the NW face diagonally right along an indistinct rounded edge over 4 bolts… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7/7+
Čtyřlístek
In the right part of the wall to the ledge and from there from the right along the edge… Rock Climbing Overhang
7/7+
Rojovník
To the left of the "Sand of Days" route. From the pedestal diagonally left to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
7/7+
Rojovník
Approximately in the middle of the W face from the pedestal upwards over 3 K's and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8/8+
Ferdinand
From the start of the "Fourth Dimension" route up the overhanging edge (ring), higher up… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7+/8-
Rojovník
From the ledge in the right part of the W face to the right of the "Feed the Stone" route… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +2
7/7+
Rojovník
From the ledge in the right part of the W face from the block up the overhanging iron… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
8/8+
Ferdinand
Together with the "Fourth Dimension" route to 2nd K. From the right along the edge and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
8+/9-
Ferdinand
Via the "Fourth Dimension" route to the 2nd ring and diagonally right up the wall to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Ferdinand
To the right in the NW wall from the block directly up over 3 BH to the 4th BH. Above it… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +1
7+/8-
Ferdinand
Start on the left in the NW wall (left of the boulder) directly up the wall over 3 rings… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Dirigent
In the valley wall from the stone, via an overhanging wall left to the 1st ring. Directly… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8/8+
Dirigent
To the right of the right valley edge, briefly via an overhanging wall into the notch and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dirigent
From the 2nd BH of the "Eroica" route diagonally right over 3 BH to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Dirigent
Along the route "Živijó" to the 2nd BH, directly into a crack widening into a chimney and… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Dirigent
In the left part of the valley wall from the Kamenice stream directly over 2 BH.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Ky-Ka-Ma
Right in the N wall from the boulder up the overhanging wall over 2 rings into a crack… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Láma
Through the S crack and broken wall of the "Council of Elders" route and along it to the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
Láma
From the edge and left to K (ring/bolt). Directly up the wall into the broken wall of the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Láma
Through the prominent valley corner, wall and pedestal left to the BH. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay

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