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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4-
Titanic
Through the middle of the SE face below the overhang and a slanted crack, new ascent. Rock Climbing
3
Titanic
Rock Climbing
4+
Titanic
In the right part of the SE face over the overhang and through the face, new ascent. Rock Climbing
5
Malá sfinga
Approach via the South edge to the fore-rock and in the left part of the face, new ascent. Rock Climbing
3
Malá sfinga
Briefly on the SE face to the fore-rock and in the left part of the face, new ascent. Rock Climbing
5
Stegosaurus
In the left part of the SW face through an overhanging crack, new ascent. Rock Climbing
4-
Stegosaurus
Through the crack left of the valley edge over the overhang and cracks, new route. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Stegosaurus
In the SW valley face through a crack and a shallow chimney, new ascent. Rock Climbing
5
Stegosaurus
Through the smooth SW face, new route. Rock Climbing
3
Stegosaurus
In the valley face through a deep chimney, new ascent. Rock Climbing
4+
Stegosaurus
Through the middle of the East face, new route. Rock Climbing
4-
Stegosaurus
Up the right E small wall. Rock Climbing
3
Harmonika
Up the W edge. Rock Climbing
5
Harmonika
Up the overhanging corner above the cave. Rock Climbing
4-
Harmonika
To the right on the W face, up the curved gully. Rock Climbing
5
Harmonika
In the left part of the valley wall, up the overhanging crack. Rock Climbing
4-
Harmonika
Along the rounded S edge upwards. Rock Climbing
3
Lady
In the left part of the NE face, up the corner chimney. Rock Climbing
5
Lady
Through the middle of the pillar, directly up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Harmonika
Through the middle of the SE face via a narrow crack. Rock Climbing
5+
Lady
Through the crack in the middle of the NE face under the overhang. Over it (K) and… Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Lady
To the right of the route "Made for Fear" directly over the overhang. Then diagonally… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
5+
Lady
Through the crack in the center of the NE face, traverse approximately 3m to the right… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lady
Along the left valley edge over the overhang to the clock (belay/anchor point), via the … Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Lady
From the block, slightly from the left, over the largest overhang steeply to the ring. … Rock Climbing
6-
Lady
Below the right valley arête, over an overhang into the gully, through it (ring) into the… Rock Climbing
6
Lady
Via the 'On Ohm' route to the ring. Further directly up the wall over the ledge to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Lady
Approach like the 'War Trail' route to the split of the cracks. Up the left crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Lady
In the SW wall, via the right crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Lady
Through the crack in the SW wall and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing

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