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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6
Anděl
Through the center of the breakthrough hollow of the southern valley wall (BH.) over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Anděl
In the left part of the massif via a breakthrough (shape - elongated pyramid), over two… Rock Climbing
5+
Rohlik
Up the edge (bh) to the bh of the Císařův pekař route and then up that to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Rohlik
Via a crack to the left of the edge onto the ledge (bh) and up the wall along the edge to… Rock Climbing
3
Rohlik
Up the prominent chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8
Anděl
Directly up the center of the valley (SE) wall over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Rohlik
Up a prominent crack to the left of the Dividing Chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay Spare Route
5
Rohlik
In the right part of the massif via an overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Rohlik
In the right part of the massif via an overhanging crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Rohlik
Through the corner under the roof-like overhang, left into the crack and up that to the… Rock Climbing
5
Rohlik
Start in the corner of the Pirožky route, onto the edge to bh. to the ledge (longitudinal… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Rohlik
Up the steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Že slíže
Start from the square flake (small crack) to the bolt and via a white small wall over the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4+
Že slíže
To the right of the central corner via a crack or wall to bh. Over the ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Vodník
Along the SW edge to the bolts and to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Vodník
In the right part of the massif via an indentation to the bolts, double crack to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
3
Vodník
Over blocks to the ledge, via an articulated break, small crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Vodník
In the middle part of the massif via steps to the bolts. Over the belly (bulge) to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Vodník
Over steps to the platform, thin crack to the next platform, from the left to the summit… Rock Climbing
4+
Vodník
Via the corner to the platform, overhanging break from the right to the summit head and… Rock Climbing
3
Vodník
In the right part of the massif via a widening crack (wedged stones) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Vodník
At the very right of the massif via a deep crack (wedged stones) to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Psí stěna
In the left part of the massif, up the middle of the wall along an indistinct crack (2… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Psí stěna
Up a smooth slab to a hole and to a ring, through a small crack to the 2nd ring and… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
5+
Psí stěna
In the middle part of the massif, through the corner to the right of the edge to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Psí stěna
In the middle part of the massif, via a double crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay Vertical wall
7/7+
Psí stěna
To the right of the route "Brambůrek" (Potato Chip) up the wall (1st bolt) into a notch … Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
5+
Psí stěna
In the right part of the massif into the depression (bolt), up the wall to the attached… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Psí stěna
To the left of the route "Táta Václav" (Dad Václav) up the wall over 2 bolts to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route on sun +1
4+
Stolová věž
In the left part of the upper wall, traverse to the eastern edge (hourglass), step over… Rock Climbing Textile belay Overhang

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