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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6+/7-
Kominík
To the left of the route "Štětka" (Brush) through a depression to the 1st bolt. Along a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Kominík
Through a chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kominík
From the block over the overhang (1st bolt) to the ledge (slings) and directly up the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Kominík
Start to the left of the Údolní route, along the rounded edge to the 1st bolt (BH). Up… Rock Climbing
5+
Kominík
Through a crack in the middle of the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Kominík
From the ledge to the right through an open crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kominík
Through the crack in the middle of the walls via a bolt (BH) under the overhang, then… Rock Climbing
2+
Kominík
Start through the chimney of the Dieta route, then continue right through the widening… Rock Climbing
4+
Kominík
Through a wide chimney and a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Evropa
Pillar left of Mouse Chimney - from the sloping platform by the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Evropa
Pillar left of Mouse Chimney - by the wall under the overhang, then right along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Evropa
Through the wide chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Evropa
Pillar left of Mouse Chimney - by the wall to the left onto the sloping platform and… Rock Climbing
4-
Evropa
Through the wide corner crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Evropa
Left of the route "Kout elévů" (Corner of the Novices). From the SE, up the crack to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Evropa
From the chimney up the small wall (bolt) and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Evropa
In the middle of the SW wall, over the overhang slightly right to the bolt. Continue up… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Evropa
Right of the route "Kout elévů" (Corner of the Novices). Up the middle of the western… Rock Climbing
4-
Evropa
Through a small overhang over a flake to the plateau, then right via a small chimney to… Rock Climbing
6
Evropa
Start at the pointed boulder. Up the southwest arête via a longitudinal crack (protection… Rock Climbing
4+
Evropa
Over loose stones and blocks (!) into the crack and through it to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Evropa
Start on the wall arête to the 1st bolt. Through the V-shaped indentation to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Evropa
Start into the overhanging small wall to the 1st bolt (drilled into a bulge). Continue… Rock Climbing
5
Evropa
Through the corner and crack to the top. (The route is approx. 20 m away from the… Rock Climbing
5+
Evropa
Through the left crack to the plateau, from the boulder (bolt) up the small wall to the… Rock Climbing
5+
Evropa
Start identical to the "Návraty" route; after exiting the corner, step right into the SW… Rock Climbing
6
Evropa
m left of the route "Gábina", directly up the wall over the 1st bolt to the 2nd bolt … Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Evropa
To the right of the "Návraty" (Returns) route, up the wall and overhangs via 3 bolts to… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Evropa
From the start of the "Pupek světa" (Navel of the World) route, to the right over 2 bolts… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +2
6+/7-
Evropa
m left of the route "Druhej skalp" (start from the boulder), up the wall via the 1st bolt… Rock Climbing

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