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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Stromová věž
Right in the North face over the bolt upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Stromová věž
Left in the North face onto the ledge to the bolt. Up the overhanging wall along the edge. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Stromová věž
Along the SW edge left into the hole and from there through an indistinct hollow to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Stromová věž
Left in the West face through the crack upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Stromová věž
Left in the valley wall into the hole. Overhanging wall right to the bolt and up the wall. Rock Climbing
3
Stromová věž
Through the center of the West face into the hollow and through it upwards. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Stromová věž
From the upper East side into the cave, from there left into the crack and upwards. Rock Climbing
4+
Stromová věž
To the right of the SE edge up the wall to the balcony, left to the bolt. Along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
3
Sosnová věž
From the E to the saddle and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Turistická věž
Via a crack in the W wall to the BH and directly along the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Turistická věž
In the right part of the valley wall via the wall and along a small crack to the left to… Rock Climbing
5+
Turistická věž
Along the right valley edge via K to the K of the Summer Ridge route. Rock Climbing
5
Turistická věž
In the W wall upwards to a ledge, along it to the right past the edge onto a shelf to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Turistická věž
From the fore-rock through the middle of the E wall to a ledge. Along the ledge past the… Rock Climbing
3
Turistická věž
Via the chimney between the tower and the massif to the crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Turistická věž
From the edge of the massif on the N side, via a traverse into the crack and then via it… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Turistická věž
Approach via the Summer Ridge route to the right to the K. From there, right via a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Turistická věž
By bridging left of the "Přepadová cesta" (Overhang/Drop Route) and via a step to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Turistická věž
From the massif via a traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing
5
Šabota
In the north wall, right of the corner, along the crack over the bolt directly to the top… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7
Šabota
Along the valley edge of the left adjacent pillar to the ledge to the bolt. From there,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2+
Lesní panna
By bridging between the tower and the small needle, then up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4+
Lesní panna
In the NW narrow wall, via a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Lesní panna
By the crack near the NE edge, then traverse right into 'Stará cesta' (Old Route). Rock Climbing Textile belay
3
Točitá věž
From the center of the valley wall along the rib to the left, by the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Víla
By the valley wall onto the ledge and by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Víla
From the saddle to the left into the E wall and by the convex wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Velbloud
To the right from the massif, by a jump/traverse to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Velbloud
From the W by the chimney between the tower and the massif and to the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Víla
From the block by the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing

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