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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7-/7
Teplická věž
In the right part of the W face via 2 K to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Medvědí věž
Through the middle of the S face via a crack and a chimney further up. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Winklerovy věže
Along the left edge of the S face over 4 K further up. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Winklerovy věže
In the right part of the North face diagonally to the 1st K, diagonally right via the… Rock Climbing
5
Winklerovy věže
In the right part of the West face of the North tower into the hole below the overhanging… Rock Climbing
6
Winklerovy věže
From the small gully (Sokolík), up the wall to the right, then left to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Winklerovy věže
From K of the route 'Common Path' directly over another 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Trojčata
From the massif, jump to the tower. Rock Climbing
6-
Trojčata
Along the edge over K to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Trojčata
From the massif descend via the chimney, step over to the Southeast edge, briefly up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Trojčata
From the hiking path through the straddle chimney. Where it widens, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
4+
Trojčata
Up the pillar on the left to the platform below the crack, then up through the crack and… Rock Climbing
4+
Trojčata
Right crack in the middle of the East face over the overhang to the top. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Trojčata
Small wall between the right and left cracks over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6+/7-
Trojčata
Up the W wall from the valley to K, further up the wall and along the crack n. v. (Normal… Rock Climbing
5
Trojčata
From the boulder on the N side, along the crack leading to the right to K, directly over… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Trojčata
With the wall between the routes 'Severní' (Northern) and 'Školácká cesta' (School Path)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Trojčata
Through the middle of the W wall along the crack n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing
6-
Trojčata
Left in the North face to the crack, then along it to the Northeast edge to K and up the… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Žabí korunka
In the N wall (below the abseil) over 3 K n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing
2+
Žabí korunka
From S through the chimney left up to the large platform and along the Normal Route n. v.… Rock Climbing
2+
Žabí korunka
Start on the Normal Route, then continue through the notch, which turns into a 'falconet'… Rock Climbing
2+
Žabí korunka
In the right part of the SW wall up through the notch, then horizontal traverse left into… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Slon - severní věž
To the left of the Builders' Route over 3 K n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing
6-
Slon - severní věž
From the right to the center of the N wall to the crack and along it to 1. K, through the… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Slon - severní věž
To the left of the Saxon Route over 1 K and 1 BH n. v. (Normal Way). Rock Climbing Fixed belay Route in shadow +2
5
Sloní sloup
Via a crack in the middle of the wall, diagonally left upwards to the top. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Pevnost
From the Southwest arête of the Elephant Pillar, a jump to the Northwest corner and then… Rock Climbing
6-
Pevnost
Via the Northeast arête over K (bolt/ring) to the top. (Original ascent used aid from the… Rock Climbing
2+
Pevnost
From the West, via an inclined wall and the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing

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