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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Srnčí věž
Up the NE edge, then traverse right behind the edge into a niche to K. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
Přeskok
Srnčí věž
Jump from Srnčí hrot. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Srnčí věž
To the left of the 'Devil's Awakening' route up the face over 3 K to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Srnčí věž
In the right part of the N face along the edge over 2 K to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Srnčí věž
In the left part of the N face to K, further into the hole and up the face over the 2nd K… Rock Climbing
5+
Srnčí věž
Along the edge to a horizontal gash, then right into the crack and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Srnčí věž
From the 2nd K straight to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Srnčí věž
Up the face to the overhang at the 1st K, over the overhang and up the face to the left… Rock Climbing
5+
Srnčí věž
To the left of the 'South Route', up the face into a hole and over the overhang towards K… Rock Climbing
4+
Srnčí věž
Through the crack to the left of the chimney, in the upper part traverse to the left edge… Rock Climbing
4-
Srnčí věž
Through the middle of the S face into a large recess and from there via a diagonal cut… Rock Climbing
2
Srnčí věž
Through the chimney in the corner to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Srnčí hrot
In the East wall of the lower tower upwards, then left to the edge and along it to the… Rock Climbing
2+
Srnčí hrot
Through the chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Staronová věž
In the left part of the West wall by a crack up to the斜 ledge and along it to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Lokomotiva
Jump from the Tender along the East edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
From the gorge from the West to the pedestal and left to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
Through the cracked wall in the recess to the saddle and right to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Lokomotiva
From the Tender, jump to the ledge to the left of the "Old Way". Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Lokomotiva
Along the SE edge to the bolt and up the wall on the right to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Lokomotiva
Up the middle of the S wall of the pillar via 2 anchors to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
6-
Lokomotiva
Directly to the 1st anchor of the route Eliášova jízda, further to the 2nd anchor and… Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva
Left in the S wall up into a hole, diagonally right under the crack and along it around… Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva
Start via the route S-shaped Crack into the hole and left to the crack and up it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Lokomotiva
In the right part of the S wall under the overhang to the 1st anchor, left up a fine… Rock Climbing
6-
Lokomotiva
Up the Z wall diagonally left to the 1st anchor, along the edge and by crack to the 2nd… Rock Climbing
5
Lokomotiva
Start right of the route Eliášova jízda (slings) onto the ledge to the anchor. From there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Lokomotiva
From the N up a smooth wall to the right into the chimney. Rock Climbing
3
Lokomotiva
From the gorge on the S side into the chimney and up it to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Tendr
Up the middle of the E wall via 1 anchor to the top. Rock Climbing

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