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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2+
Lesní zátiší
Along the SW edge over ledges under the summit crack and along that to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Pidižvík
Through the middle of the South face via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Pidižvík
Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Pidižvík
Along the East edge of the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Pidižvík
Along the SE wall along the South edge over ledges to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Pidižvík
In the upper SE wall over a small roof to the rappel anchor. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Strážní věže
Up the East face along the right edge of the West tower to a hole (K), to the right via a… Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Strážní věže
Through the middle of the North face of the West tower over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věže
Via the 'Chimney Route' above the overhang and further up a narrow crack around the K … Rock Climbing
3
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Right of the SW edge, up the chimney to a wedged boulder and then up the SW edge and wall… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Bratrská věž
Via the crack and wall left of the route "Tučný podvod" (Fat Deception) to the bolt.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7/7+
Bratrská věž
In the NW wall via the overhang to the 1st bolt, then directly to the 2nd bolt, onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Bratrská věž
Via the crack through the middle of the wall into a niche (bolt) and via the crack to the… Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
Upwards via the overhanging W edge, later to the right along the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
In the SE wall via the crack into a hole and with aid to the bolt, further via the crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Bratrská věž
In the right part of the SW wall through a hole to the right onto the S edge and behind… Rock Climbing
8-/8
Bratrská věž
In the NW valley wall into a hole (hourglass) and over the overhang to the bolt,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Bratrská věž
In the NW wall into a large hole in the left edge to the bolt and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Bratrská věž
Via the crack in the NW wall to a small platform and via the left chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Bratrská věž
Through the NW wall to the hourglass and slightly left to the 1st bolt, from there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Bratrská věž
Via the right diagonal crack in the SE wall to its end. Upwards along the edge, later… Rock Climbing
6-
Cikánský hrad
Via the NW edge past 3 BHs to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Cikánský hrad
From the right edge upwards to the fore-summit/pinnacle. Up the wall to the K, upwards… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay +1
4-
Svatební věže - JZ věž
Through a wide chimney between the towers to a wedged boulder, left into a crack to a… Rock Climbing
5
Svatební věže - JZ věž
Right of the Common Path onto the pillar to the K and a partially overhanging wall to the… Rock Climbing
3
Svatební věže - JZ věž
Through the notch in the SE face to the ledge, then a crack and directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zelená věž
From the right onto the NW edge, via a gully over the overhang and via the North Route to… Rock Climbing
4-
Zelená věž
To the right near the NE edge into a notch, up through it via steps to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zelená věž
To the right of the chimney in the E wall onto the rib and to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Zelená věž
In the middle of the N wall via a shallow widening crack to a platform and from there via… Rock Climbing

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