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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

7+/8-
Snílek
Via the overhanging NW valley wall over a ring and 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
2
Snílek
From the massif, a traverse or step-across to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Snílek
In the left part of the upper side directly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Duma
Right of "Chateaubriand" via a wide crack to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Křepelka
Left of the "gate" through the overhanging pillar and straight to the bolt. Diagonally… Rock Climbing
4+
Křepelka
Through the middle of the S face (below the rappel) via hourglasses to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Duma
Through a chimney to the rock needle and from there via an overhanging edge over BH and… Rock Climbing Danger
4+
Křepelka
3m right of the "Old Way" up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Křepelka
Right of the "gate" straight up the overhanging wall to the ledge (hourglass) and along… Rock Climbing
6
Houbičky
Ascent from a wide passage chimney, along the NW overhanging edge to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Křepelka
Left of the "East Ridge" through a narrow gully to the arched ledge, traverse left to the… Rock Climbing
3
Křepelka
Along the edge to the balcony of the "Old Route" and along it to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Křepelka
Left in the plateau wall through the recess to the balcony and along the edge to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Křepelka
Along the SW edge over the bolt and hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5+
Křepelka
In the middle of the valley wall through the chimney narrowing into a crack, along it and… Rock Climbing
5
Křepelka
Right of the "Escape Route" straight up the wall into the hole of the "Southeast Gully"… Rock Climbing
4+
Strach
From the valley through a large overhang into the overhanging chimney and through it via… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Strach
In the NW wall over the overhang directly into the corner crack and along it up to the… Rock Climbing Danger
2+
Strach
Through the N wall and chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážce Slunečné brány
Right in the NW wall over 2 bolts to the ledge, right to the balcony and along the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Strážce Slunečné brány
Right in the S wall up the corner, traverse left into the crack and through it to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Strážce Slunečné brány
In the middle of the NW wall through the crack to the niche and along the wall from the… Rock Climbing
8/8+
Strážce Slunečné brány
From the edge traverse right into the crack and through it to the bolt, slightly from the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
2+
Strážce Slunečné brány
From NW or SE through the chimney between the tower and the massif to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Strážce Slunečné brány
From the left onto the valley edge and along it over the bolt and hourglass to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
8-/8
Strážce Slunečné brány
Straight up the S wall over the overhang and bolt to the ledge, left and straight over… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Overhang
2
Strážce Slunečné brány
From the massif from the S, descend and step over to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Stánek
Via the small pinnacle over the hole to the K. Above the K to the left and (n. v.) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6
Lančova vyhlídka
Through the middle of the W wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Stánek
In the South face, from a small cave over an overhang with the help of a nose, higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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