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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5
Stánek
In the South face, from a small cave over an overhang with the help of a nose, higher up… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Strážce Slunečné brány
From the massif from the S, descend and step over to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Stěna u turistické chaty
From the block to the left below the wall, via the overhanging wall over the K (n. v.) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Stěna u turistické chaty
From the large cave in the middle of the wall into a narrowing chimney via a crack and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Stěna u turistické chaty
Via an overhanging crack into a niche and by layback between the walls (n. v.) Rock Climbing
3
Stěna u turistické chaty
In the left part of the wall, diagonally right into the chimney and up it (n. v.) Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Stěna u turistické chaty
In the left part of the North face, via a crack to its end, traverse left into another… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Stěna u turistické chaty
Through the center of the North face over the K to the ledge below the summit. From there… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Stěna u turistické chaty
To the right in the North face via a fine crack (hourglass) and at its end left into a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Svatodušní věž
In the right part of the West face (to the right of the route 'Right West Crack') over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Stěna u turistické chaty
Near the NE edge, briefly up a small wall to the 1st K. Via the small pinnacle (hourglass… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Svatodušní věž
To the left in the NW face, over two overhangs onto a ledge to the K. Over the overhang… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svatodušní věž
Via an overhanging crack into a niche and to the right via a layback (n. v.) Rock Climbing
6-
Svatodušní věž
In the center of the North face, from the hole to the right and higher up to the left to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5
Svatodušní věž
In the East face, from the deep corner via the right crack into a widening and along the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Svatodušní věž
To the right in the NE face, right into a hole and further left onto a ledge to the K. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Svatodušní věž
To the left of the deep corner, via the overhanging edge to the K. Up the edge (n. v.) Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Svatodušní věž
Via a wide crack in the right part of the West face, over the flake and hourglass (n. v.) Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Svatodušní věž
From the massif, a jump (n. v.) Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
Corner. chimney between towers (n. v.) Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
Via a wide overhanging crack, higher up through a chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Svatodušní věž
In the right part of the East face, via the wall and higher up via the chimney (n. v.) Rock Climbing
4+
Svatodušní věž
From the deep corner, via the left crack and chimney (n. v.) Rock Climbing
4+
Svatodušní věž
Up the rounded SW edge through a hole to a shelf and briefly up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Netopýří věž
Via the East route (over 2 hours). A friable traverse left into the broken corner, over a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Netopýří věž
Briefly up the Valley Wall and right to the SE edge to the K. Up the wall along the edge… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4-
Netopýří věž
In the West face, via the crack to the top. Rock Climbing
2+
Netopýří věž
Through the chimney between the massif and the tower to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Netopýří věž
On the West side, through the chimney into the crack (also through a hole from the massif… Rock Climbing
4+
Netopýří věž
Left of the path, Valley Wall over the K to the rib and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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