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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Netopýří věž
Left of the path, Valley Wall over the K to the rib and up it to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Masiv čumilů
In the central part of the massif, left of the prominent chimney, via a slanted crack to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Netopýří věž
In the left part of the valley's S wall over an overhang into a hole, left to the edge… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Netopýří věž
From the left part of the massif, a jump to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Masiv čumilů
In the central part of the massif, right behind the advanced block, via a corner to a… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Masiv čumilů
In the right part of the massif via the wall along the chimney below the overhang (K) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Masiv čumilů
In the central part of the massif, left of the prominent chimney, via the wall along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Masiv čumilů
In the right part of the massif via a prominent corner to a ledge and middle of the wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Masiv čumilů
Via an indistinct edge left of the 'Columbův komín' (Columb's Chimney) route to a ledge,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Masiv čumilů
In the advanced block in the central part of the massif via the 'Amelie' route to K,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Masiv čumilů
From the left, via the corner between the pillar and the massif to a ledge and up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Masiv čumilů
In the advanced block in the central part of the massif via the 'Sokolík' (small falcon)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Východní roh
Through the middle of the SE wall via a horizontal notch to the ring and over the… Rock Climbing
6-
Východní roh
Up the left part of the valley wall over 3 bolts below the overhang and directly up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Východní roh
At the SE edge, over the small wall to the left and up. Rock Climbing
5+
Velký bazar
In the right part of the wall to the ring and over the hourglass up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6-
Velký bazar
In the left part of the wall, up the crack to the 1st ring and up the wall over the 2nd… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7
Východní věž
Like the East Face to the balcony, up the wall past 2 rings. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Východní věž
Approach via a variant of the Eastern Route to the platform, traverse left past the edge… Rock Climbing
5+
Východní věž
From the plateau side, directly into the recess via an interrupted rib. Rock Climbing
5
Východní věž
From the pillar left onto the edge and along it over two rings to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Východní věž
From the platform via a small crack to the ledge, right and up the wall. Rock Climbing
5
Východní věž
Completely left in the NW wall around the hourglass to the crack and up the hawk-like… Rock Climbing
6-
Východní věž
In the right part of the valley wall to the first ring and along the hawk-like crack to… Rock Climbing Traditional Climbing
5
Východní věž
From the pillar directly up the E wall. Rock Climbing
3
Východní věž
In the left part of the E wall into the notch and through it diagonally right onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Východní věž
From the left or right onto the pillar in the E wall, diagonally right and up onto the… Rock Climbing
4+
Východní věž
In the left part of the plateau SW wall to the horizontal notch (hourglass). Hand crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Zapadlý masiv
Through the crack to the left behind the edge up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Zapadlý masiv
Entry like 'Obřízková cesta' (Circumcision Route), left over K to the edge and along it… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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