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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Zapadlý masiv
Directly up the small wall between the routes 'Odpolední salám' (Afternoon Salami) and … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Východní věž
From the left hole diagonally left past the edge onto the platform and up the crack. Rock Climbing
5
Východní věž
Left of the W edge up into a horizontal notch. By climbing over the overhang into the… Rock Climbing
5
Východní věž
From the left edge of the 2nd rectangular hole, directly up the slightly overhanging wall. Rock Climbing
5+
Zapadlý masiv
Up the wall to the left of 'Radikální řez' (Radical Cut) over K. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Malý dóm
Entry via 'Cesta pro Lukáše' (Lukáš's Way) to the falconer's crack. Through it to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5
Malý dóm
To the right of 'Cesta pro Lukáše' (Lukáš's Way) via a small wall and edge over K up. Rock Climbing
4+
Zapadlý masiv
Through the crack in the right part of the massif up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Zapadlý masiv
Entry at the edge and via a small falconer's crack and a crack up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Zapadlý masiv
Directly through the fissure into the crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Malý dóm
Through the middle of the S wall over K up. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Malý dóm
To the left in the E wall over the overhang and 2 K up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Malý dóm
Entry in the right part of the S wall, right over the overhang (K and overhanging wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Malý dóm
Via the route 'Geniální nápad' (Genial Idea) to the large hole and further from the left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Malý dóm
Entry in the middle of the valley wall over the overhang to the 1st K, directly to the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Malý dóm
In the left part of the valley wall over K. into the crack and up through it. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4-
Malý dóm
Through the chimney to the bivouac. Rock Climbing Textile belay
4-
Malý dóm
Through the chimney to the left of the bivouac. Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Malý dóm
To the right in the E wall along the edge (loops) via K up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Malý dóm
Through the middle of the E wall into the crack (loops) and up through it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Malý dóm
Through the chimney on the right in the E wall up. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Stoklasa
Via BH up. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Malá jehla
Up the center of the north wall to the bolt, then up the wall and overhanging pillar to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Malá jehla
Via the W edge over two overhangs directly to the top. Rock Climbing
4-
Malá jehla
Up the center of the S wall to the ledge and by the "Valley Route" to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Malá jehla
Up the left part of the N wall over bolt and further along the overhanging edge to the… Rock Climbing
6-
Zvoneček
In the right part of the N wall over 2 K and 1 BH to the balcony (hourglass) and freely… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4+
Malá jehla
To the left of the route Božský klid (Divine Peace) via the overhanging S edge over bolt… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Zvoneček
In the N wall via chimney between pillar and massif, crack over bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2+
Malá jehla
From E through the crevice to the tower, then upwards and diagonally left to the top. Rock Climbing

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