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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
In the SE narrow wall by crack to a balcony, further diagonally right to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7+/8-
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
In the S wall to the right of the tourist path passage via 3 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Middle of the S wall of the E summit by wall into a hole ('clock'). By crack under the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
5+
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Middle of the S wall of the E summit by wall into a hole ('clock'). By crack under the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8-/8
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Middle of the S wall to 1st K, into a hole and by wall to 2nd K, further slightly from… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
In the S wall to the right of the passage by a small wall and a falcon-like feature onto… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Right in the S wall up to the 'clock' and right to K. By wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Middle of the S wall by a small falcon-like feature to K, further by a small falcon-like… Rock Climbing
5
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
From the passage under the tower from Kurtovy věže via an overhanging chimney into the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
Rock Climbing
6-
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
To the left in the SW face over holes upwards and higher left onto the SW edge via a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7/7+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
Same as the Southwest Edge into a hole, from there directly via the wall to 1st BH.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
4+
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
From the Cross Tower via a crack in a deep corner/chimney to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Gottwald - hlavní vrchol
Start to the right of the path, Fountain with a falcon and a wall across K into a pocket,… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From the start of the North Route via an overhang over K to the 1st K of the Narrow Wall… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From the large hourglasses right to K and via a fine crack/flute to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
4+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
In the right part of the SW face into a hole. Traverse right into a wide chimney between… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7-/7
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From the 1st K of the 'Full Throttle' route slightly right upwards to the next K. Via the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From the large hourglasses of the Gully Route (NW) tower traverse left to a small crack… Rock Climbing Textile belay
7+/8-
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
Via the Gully Route into a hole and higher via a small crack/flute to K. Via the wall to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
Via the SW face right into a hole to 1st K. Position yourself into the hole and to 2nd K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From K up into a large hole to 2nd K. Right along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
South edge over dK to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
From K left to 2nd K. Via the wall left to a rib and along it left to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6-
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
Briefly via a wide chimney, from the hourglasses right into the SE narrow wall to 1st K.… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
5+
Kurtovy věže - severozápadní věž
At the left edge of the NE face over the overhang to a hole, traverse the wall right to a… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
To the left in the SW face along the edge into a small hole, traverse over the edge left… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
6
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
Through the center of the NE face via the wall and crack to K. Right to the crack and… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7+/8-
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
From the ring of the Misty Route straight up the wall (ring) to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Kurtovy věže - jihovýchodní věž
In the SE face via a crack under the overhang, over it and left to the summit. Rock Climbing Textile belay

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