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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

5+
Sťatý major
In the right part of the NE face by crack under a large overhang. Over the overhang into… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
7-/7
Sťatý major
Along the edge to the left of the 'Wall of Dreams' route over 2 K's to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Sťatý major
From K to the left to a hole and straight up the wall to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věže
To the right in the North face of the West tower into a hole, via a 'sokolík' (small edge… Rock Climbing
7/7+
Strážní věže
To the left of the 'Dessert' route over 2 BH to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Strážní věže
Along the SW edge of the West tower to K and to the top. Rock Climbing
6
Strážní věže
To the left in the West wall over 2 K's to the 2nd K of the Swan Sand route and by that… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Strážní věže
In the right part of the North face of the West tower to the edge to K and along it over… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Strážní věže
To the right in the West wall via a hollow to a hole (loop) and over the overhang to K.… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5
Strážní věže
Through the chimney between the towers, via a crack in the E tower to K (bolt) and… Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní věže
In the passage of the E wall of the W tower to K (bolt), upwards, over a drop and up the… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Strážní věže
Up the middle of the N wall of the E tower past 2 K's (bolts/pitons). Rock Climbing
6
Strážní věže
Left part of the N wall of the E tower, left to the edge and around the K (bolt) upwards. Rock Climbing
6-
Strážní věže
Through the middle of the South face of the West tower to K and by crack to the top. Rock Climbing
4+
Strážní věže
At the wall passage right of the SE edge of the W tower, upwards, then left behind the… Rock Climbing
5
Strážní věže
Up the middle of the S wall of the E tower via a pillar into the largest hole (sling) and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
2
Strážní věže
In the corner of the N wall of the E tower to the holes, left via a crack above the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Oddílové věže - severní věž
In the left part of the tower, step across upwards. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Oddílové věže - severní věž
From the balcony below the summit of the South Tower, step across upwards. Rock Climbing
5+
Oddílové věže - severní věž
In the left part of the N wall to the 1st K (bolt), via a crack to a hole and left to the… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Over the overhangs from the left to the edge and up it. Rock Climbing
5+
Strážní věže
Right of the 'Chimney Route', diagonally right up the wall to K (bolt). First upwards,… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6-
Oddílové věže - severní věž
In the right part of the E wall, up the edge over an overhang to the 'kazatelna' (pulpit)… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Up the middle of the N wall via 2 K's (bolts/pitons). Rock Climbing
4-
Oddílové věže - severní věž
In the right part of the S wall, up a distinctly curved crack. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Approximately in the middle of the S wall, bridge to a crack and up it. Rock Climbing
6-
Oddílové věže - severní věž
In the W wall via 2 K's (bolts/pitons) upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Up the edge via 2 K's (bolts/pitons). Rock Climbing
5+
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Right of the 'Giraffe Route', directly into the 'sokolík' (small pedestal) and up it to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
4+
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
From the gully, bridge to the SW edge and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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