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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
From the gully, bridge to the SW edge and up it. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
Up the NE edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
Up the middle of the narrow SE wall via a hole. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
3
Oddílové věže - severní věž
Up the SE edge into a notch. From there, go right to the edge and up. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
From the Chřestýř massif, step over to the ledge by the edge. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
3
Oddílové věže - jižní věž
At the SE edge via a ramp to the left, then via a small wall upwards to the right and… Rock Climbing
4+
Chřestýš
From a large block via the wall to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Chřestýš
Via the crack over 1 bolt to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Chřestýš
From the 1st bolt directly to the 2nd bolt via the wall. Rock Climbing Fixed belay
6+/7-
Chřestýš
Right of the NE edge via a small wall to the 1st bolt, from there from the left along the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Chřestýš
Left in the NE wall via a diagonal hand crack into a hole and from there via a wide crack… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Chřestýš
Through the middle of the wall over 2 bolts to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Gheto
Left of the Parte route in a pocket through 3 holes with crack transitions into the final… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Gheto
Ascent along the pillar of the large cave in the left part of the NE wall into a deep… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Gheto
In the middle of the valley NE wall over the overhang via a distinct gully around the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Gheto
In the right part of the wall via an overhanging crack into a hole. From there left via a… Rock Climbing
6
Gheto
Through the middle of the NE wall via a wide curved crack and higher via a widening… Rock Climbing Textile belay Danger
2
Cikánský hrad
From the hiking trail via the chimney to the top. Rock Climbing
8/8+
Cikánský hrad
Climb over without aid. Rock Climbing
8-/8
Cikánský hrad
With a simple standing move into the wall and directly to the 1st K. Diagonally right to… Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
7-/7
Cikánský hrad
Up the N face from the tourist path to the pillar and through a hole to the K, directly… Rock Climbing Danger
6-
Cikánský hrad
Completely in the right part of the N face directly up the wall through a hole to the 1st… Rock Climbing Fixed belay
5+
Cikánský hrad
Up the wall to the ledge and along the edge past the K to the top. Rock Climbing
5
Cikánský hrad
From the block in the center of the N face into the hole. By a standing move to the rib… Rock Climbing
5
Cikánský hrad
From the block in the center of the N face into the right hole, right via a narrow crack… Rock Climbing
6-
Svatební věže - SV věž
Via a crack to a large boulder below the NE face. Traverse left into another crack and… Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Svatební věže - SV věž
Via a break right of the route 'Left Edge', left into holes and higher to the K of the … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Svatební věže - SV věž
Via an overhanging crack and the SE face to the ledge and the left crack to the top. Rock Climbing
6-
Svatební věže - SV věž
By aid climbing over a large overhang to the E edge and to the top. Rock Climbing
2
Cikánský hrad
From the massif on the E side via a small wall and to the top. Rock Climbing

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