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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

2
Cikánský hrad
From the massif on the E side via a small wall and to the top. Rock Climbing
5+
Svatební věže - SV věž
From the K of the Wisdom Tooth route via a crack to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Svatební věže - JZ věž
From the passage between the towers up the N face past 2 Ks, higher up a rib and an… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Svatební věže - SV věž
From the boulder below the NE face into the hole and left to the K, up the wall to the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Svatební věže - SV věž
From the summit of the Southwest Tower by a jump to the summit of the NE Tower. Rock Climbing
4-
Svatební věže - SV věž
Left in the S face via a slightly overhanging wall to the right and a crack to a wedged… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4-
Svatební věže - JZ věž
From the summit of the Northeast Tower via an overhang/mantel move onto a step and to the… Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kraken
Along the left edge of the crack diagonally left to the 1st K (ring). Up the overhanging… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay
3
Svatební věže - JZ věž
Right of the SE edge via a crack to the ledge on the edge and along that to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay +1
3
Svatební věže - JZ věž
From the west via the chimney directly to the top. Rock Climbing
3
Svatební věže - JZ věž
Via the Common Path to the ledge. Briefly left up the wall to the balcony and a crack to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kraken
In the NE valley wall via a shorter left crack over a small overhang to a balcony and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Kraken
Via the wide valley crack to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Jedlová zeď
In the left part of the valley wall over a pocket to the 1st K (ring), then straight over… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Kraken
To the left of 'The Deep' route, over 2 K (rings) to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
7-/7
Kraken
Up the N edge over a small hole/pocket to the 1st K (ring). Further into a prominent… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
6-
Jedlová zeď
From the 1st K (ring) straight and diagonally left into a gully and to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Jedlová zeď
Via a crack in the E edge onto an earthen ledge and up a small wall/slab along the edge… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
6+/7-
WC masiv
Up the E wall via an indistinct arête/pillar and further up the wall over 2 K (rings) to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
WC masiv
Via the edge to the left of the 'TOI TOI klub' route to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Jedlová zeď
In the right part of the valley NE wall to the 1st K (ring), left via an arête/pillar and… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Jedlová zeď
From the 1st K (ring) of the 'Afternoon Full of Fear' route, traverse right and via the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Danger
7-/7
Jedlová zeď
In the left part of the valley wall, via an arête/pillar to the right of the pocket to… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Jedlová zeď
To the right of the 'Snake Skin' route, via an arête/pillar over a pocket to the 1st K … Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Textile belay
4-
Africká věž
From the passage, via an overhanging chimney into a crack and through it, then upwards. Rock Climbing
6
Africká věž
From the center of the E wall over the overhang to the right to the K (ring), further… Rock Climbing
5+
Africká věž
From the center of the E wall to the left and around the K (ring) upwards to the top. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Africká věž
To the right of the passage, by a small crack and up the wall to the 1st anchor, then… Rock Climbing
5
Africká věž
By a narrow crack to the right of the passage, then upwards. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Africká věž
To the right of the 'Charming Route', up the wall to the 1st anchor. Then directly up the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay

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