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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

4+
Faraónova stěna
By a wide crack in the right part of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Faraónova stěna
To the right of the Záludná spára (Tricky Crack) route, up the wall over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing Fixed belay +1
5+
Faraónova stěna
Between the Špinavá spára (Dirty Crack) and Ťuk a Bzuk (Tap and Buzz) routes, up the wall… Rock Climbing
4+
Faraónova stěna
Along the edge to the left of the Niké route over K to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5
Faraónova stěna
In the left part of the wall by a gully and crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Faraónova stěna
By a crack in the middle of the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mumie
Along the NE edge to the pillar, step over to the Old Route and continue along it to the… Rock Climbing
6
Faraónova stěna
Along the edge over K to the 2nd K of the Top Gun route and along it to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Mumie
From the massif, a jump to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Mumie
From S corner chimney or wall left up to the pre-summit plateau and further along the… Rock Climbing
2+
Mumie
From the SE, first up a chimney, then along the edge up below the roof, right to a ledge… Rock Climbing
4+
Mumie
In the SE face along the southern edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mumie
Along the NW edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4-
Mumie
Up the SE face to the summit. Rock Climbing
3
Mumie
Up the W edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
4+
Mumie
To the left in the E face, along the S edge to the summit. Thanks to Horosvaz for the… Rock Climbing Textile belay
8+/9-
Kamenný sněhulák
From the hiking trail, over the overhang of the E face directly to K, slightly from the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Kamenný sněhulák
From the massif, jump to the lower tower. Rock Climbing
2+
Kamenný sněhulák
From the 1st jammed block up to the lower peak and by stepping over to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Kamenný sněhulák
From the lower tower, jump to the main summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Kamenný sněhulák
From the hiking trail, up a broken crack to the top of the lower tower. Then by the Old… Rock Climbing
4+
Kamenný sněhulák
Up a chimney on the SE side for 5 m, then right behind the edge and to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Kamenný sněhulák
From the hiking trail from the W, up a chimney to a jammed boulder, right over another… Rock Climbing
5+
Kamenný sněhulák
In the right part of the N face into a hole. Over an overhang into a crack and then up… Rock Climbing
3
Kamenný sněhulák
Up a wide chimney in the S face for about 4 m, then traverse to the right side of the… Rock Climbing
6-
Kamenný sněhulák
In the E face into a hole and left around K to a platform. Up the face below the overhang… Rock Climbing
5+
Kamenný sněhulák
In the W face via a small chimney/alcove and the face around K to the summit. Rock Climbing
7-/7
Kamenný sněhulák
In the N face over an overhang to K, further into a crack and to the summit. Rock Climbing
7+/8-
Kamenný sněhulák
Along the NE edge to K, right and back along the edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
6+/7-
Kamenný sněhulák
To the left of the route, Jardova Zetka up the face (K to the summit). Rock Climbing Sport Climbing

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