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Climbing at Elbe Sandstones

20993 routes
9 areas
1–11 grades

Photo: Jan Kameníček, CC BY-SA 4.0

The Elbe Sandstones in northern Bohemia form the canyon-like valley of the Elbe between Děčín and Hřensko and continue across the border into Saxon Switzerland. The Labské pískovce Protected Landscape Area was declared on 19 September 1972 and covers about 324 km²; its main part lies on the right bank of the Elbe next to Bohemian Switzerland National Park, and the Elbe Canyon itself is a national nature monument. On the left bank, on the southern edge of the Ore Mountains fault, rise the Tisá Walls (613 m), which together with the Rájec and Ostrov walls and Děčínský Sněžník make up the western hiking and climbing part. In Děčín the Pastýřská stěna above the Elbe carries a via ferrata.

Climbing is on sandstone walls and towers from a few metres up to about 40 m, mostly face climbing on holds on rock that is often fragile. Ethics are traditional and shaped by Saxon Switzerland: ring bolts are sparse, gaps are protected only with slings and knots, metal gear (cams, nuts, pitons) is banned and chalk is prohibited in the Tisá protected area. Climb only on dry rock and in daylight; some routes and sectors are closed because of rock damage or temporarily for nesting birds. The first sport ascents at Tisá date from the early 20th century. Entry to the Malé and Velké stěny is paid (waived for Czech Mountaineering Association members), with paid parking in Tisá village. The tourist trails get crowded at weekends.

Part of Czech Republic, Elbe Sandstones has 20993 routes documented on climbing.place. Routes range from grade 1 to 11. Explore its 9 crags and sectors below.

Common styles: Rock Climbing, Textile belay, Fixed belay, Sport Climbing, Route in shadow.

Rules

The ČHS rules for climbing in Bohemian sandstone areas apply.

  • Chalk is banned.
  • No metal protection (cams, nuts, pitons) – only slings, knots and textile "UFOs" between the rings.
  • Climb on dry rock only – wet sandstone softens and breaks.
  • Do not alter the rock surface.
  • Abseil from the summit rings.

Parts of the area lie in Bohemian Switzerland National Park and the Elbe Sandstones Protected Landscape Area, where seasonal closures for nesting birds apply. Check the ČHS crag database before you go.

6-
Hubený doktor
Up the Northwest edge over the 1st bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Poliklinika
By chimney in the Southwest wall to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Hubený doktor
Up the North wall into a hole and further up the wall over the 1st bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing
5+
Hubený doktor
From the large hourglass, up the Southwest edge to the summit. Rock Climbing
7/7+
Hubený doktor
From the hole directly to the bolt and further up the wall and by crack to the summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6
Hubený doktor
At the Southwest edge, up and traverse right behind the edge into the South wall. Up into… Rock Climbing Textile belay
Přeskok
Tlustý starosta
To the left of the Eastern Route, a crack by traverse/step-across to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Tlustý starosta
From the left part of the massif, traverse/step-across to the left edge onto a projection. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hubený doktor
From the corner of 'Fat Mayor', traverse/overhang to the Southeast edge of the tower and… Rock Climbing
6
Hubený doktor
Up the valley wall below the rappel over the 1st bolt to the summit. Rock Climbing Fixed belay Textile belay
Přeskok
Tlustý starosta
From the summit of the massif, traverse/step-across to the main summit. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
4+
Hubený doktor
At the Northeast edge, by crack into a niche. To the right behind the edge, up the… Rock Climbing
3
Hubený doktor
Along the Southeast edge, either by crack or a layback chimney between 'Fat Mayor' and … Rock Climbing Textile belay
2+
Tlustý starosta
From the passage between 'Fat Mayor' and 'Massifs' in front of 'Doctor', by crack to a… Rock Climbing
3
Tlustý starosta
To the left of the Eastern Route, via a notch and up the wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
6-
Tlustý starosta
Close to the right edge of the South wall via slightly overhanging arêtes to the hole… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Tlustý starosta
In the valley wall over an overhang and from the right to the bolt, left to the 2nd bolt… Rock Climbing
2+
Tlustý starosta
From the Northwest briefly by chimney and then by steps to the summit. Rock Climbing
6
Masivy před doktorem
From K traverse right and up the face to the top. Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
6-
Masivy před doktorem
Start on the right in the S face over two holes to K and from there straight up the face… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
2
Masivy před doktorem
Through the left crack in the N face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
2
Masivy před doktorem
Through the right crack in the N face to the top. Rock Climbing Textile belay
6-
Srnčí hrot
By the SW crack to the ledge and traverse right to the bolt, then up the edge over the… Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Srnčí hrot
By jumping from the massif to the summit. Rock Climbing
Přeskok
Srnčí hrot
3m to the left of the "New Jump" route, descend by a crack to the flake and from its left… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
Přeskok
Srnčí hrot
Descend 2m from the Staronová Tower to a ledge and jump to the pillar. Fall onto the… Rock Climbing Sport Climbing
5+
Srnčí hrot
In the left part of the South wall into a hole. Left (sling, up and right to the small… Rock Climbing Textile belay
5
Srnčí hrot
In the right part of the South wall by a crack to the summit. Rock Climbing
2+
Srnčí hrot
Through the chimney to the right in the North wall to the summit. Rock Climbing
2
Srnčí hrot
On the North or South side through the chimney between the tower and the East lower tower… Rock Climbing

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